CÉLINE Summer 2013

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ilaria_grazia_it
 

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Showroom
thewebstermiami
 

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Last edited:
Showroom
yulialobova
 

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The rolled-up clutches look so inviting on the runway but I just don't know how I'm going to wear them with panache IRL. The sort of accessory I'll admire from afar but hesitate to buy. Lovely colours though.
 
From Harper's Bazaar UK
Review by Carmen Borgonovo


"Phoebe Philo never ceases to amaze and for spring/summer 13 she mesmerized her audience with lyrical artistry that paid an elegant homage to Japanese inspired construction and a new found minimalism that was lighter and more intricate than in past seasons.

She used a quiet understated palette of black, navy, white, off-white and the lightest of pinks and offered fluid shapes with a soft refined beauty.

Blouses were gathered knotted and swirled around the body into fluid sculptures. They were perfectly matched with a variation of trousers, over-sized, high wasted, cropped, ankle length and wide leg shapes. They looked stunning especially in an exquisite duchess satin.

She challenged the poetic quality of her clothing by pairing her looks with humorous, flat, mink fur lined Birkenstock inspired sandals or courts covered in bright jolts of coloured fur such as red and yellow. Perhaps these pieces won't be flying out of the stores next season but they added an unexpected sense of whimsy and enchantment that looked so right.

Philo also introduced a Kimono style wrap around shawl that perched elegantly around the shoulders which created a new modern proportion to the trouser suit.

Monastic like dresses that almost skimmed the floor with distressed frayed seams also gave the designer's otherwise clean aesthetic an organic edge. She varied this silhouette by adding v-shape black netting along the front that created a modern effect.

But the designer also understands her customer perfectly and amidst all the new proportions she offered polished tailored trouser suits and a phenomenal white silk trench that are the perfect wardrobe investments.

Philo's undaunted success comes from her ultimate penchant for knowing what a woman wants. Her clothing has a modern relevance that no other designer has recently achieved and appeals to a plethora of women.

And by the looks of the editor's in attendance who were mostly dressed in head to toe Celine there is no question after this spectacular show Phoebe Philo will continue to be a fashion crowd favourite."

http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/fashion/catwalk/celine-spring-summer-13#slide-1
 
From Vogue UK
Review by Jessica Bumpus
30 Sept 2012

"PHOEBE PHILO showed her most confident collection to date for Celine this afternoon - and among those to witness LVMH's star girl in action was Kanye West, who this season cancelled his Paris Fashion Week show.

But back to Philo, one of London's most fashionable and talented exports - she has a knack for defining simplicity.

"I thought it had broader appeal and looked easier. The colour was incredible - the lack of it, just the greys and the white and black with the red shoes," said Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers of the collection which, in this serene and select palette, took the idea of wrapping as its focus. So tops were enveloped at the shoulders as though a little stole or wrap was being worn. Sometimes the wrap was simple and other times it was, dare we say it in the context of Celine, more flamboyant, bluntly splaying into the layers of fabric that created it at the back. It looked like it had been stapled into place.

"There was a real confidence, as though she really wanted to wear each piece - and you know that other women will too," noted Chambers.

Because that's the clever thing that Philo does - she is a designer and a stylist all in one and it's this overall aesthetic that she has so well managed to coin that is the key to her success. It's minimalism to a degree and it's stark to a degree but there's always just the right dose of femininity in there too - hence these semi flounce wraps, as well as the sparse introduction of soft pink.

Otherwise, it was full of separates or dresses that had a separates quality about them: white mesh inserts to contrast black dungaree-back long dresses. Tailoring was sharp as ever but cuts on jackets flared out just towards the top of the back to give a softer shape, while other jackets were voluminous and articulated at the shoulder and there were those cropped lengths again that we've been seeing throughout Paris, starting at Balenciaga.

But it was the wrapping that was the main story here - was Philo telling us she had it all wrapped up? Quite likely."

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2013/ready-to-wear/celine
 
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@storm_cophenhagen
 

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