Care of your Hayden Harnett

#16
temo said:
I noticed on the hh website, under "FAQ's" they mentioned using the white plastic eraser that is found in art supply stores on leather. What do you think of that?
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White erasers are fine ! You can even use a regular pencil eraser for a lot of marks ! I use Art gum erasers ( the tan ones) to get tailor crayon off leather and nubuck. The plastic ones would slick nubuck or embossed leather, but are OK for most smooth finished leather. Pencil erasers work best on washed leathers, like the Mercer garment washed HHs. :sunshine:
Be gentle, use short strokes with the grain. Dust residue off with dry terrycloth.
:peace:
 
#17
kings_20 said:
^^

So don't treat metallics with anything than? What can we do to prevent flaking? I have an anthracite havana and a pyrite havana coming. Should I leave them untreated? TIA!
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We cannot prevent flaking. It happens when a foil type overlayer was improperly applied. The problem is under the surface. Not all HH metallics are made like the pilot (which flakes). Pewter, for example, has ground reflective minerals actually impregnated into the top layer, which is the best way to make a metallic.
It won't have that Reynolds wrap smoothness, but does have durability.
KINGS where on Mother Earth did you find a Pyrite !! ???
I can't wait to see what THAT's about !
Unless you can find a Silicone protectant spray, leave the metallics alone.
Avoid alcohol and petroleum based products ! :peace:
 
#18
Sybaryte said:
I'm with you on that. Never would have thought about conditioning, cleaning, etc. Cracked leather on the strap on my Fendi bag meant it was destined for the Goodwill. No more of that for me now!

So...love this thread, I have a lot to learn. My current issue: I just got a lead clutch wallet from Luna Boston. I think it was their last one since they're no longer available. It has some marks on it, and the funny thing is, the marks match marks on the wallet in their photos. So I guess I got the "display" model. They kinda look like it was scuffed or scratched. Look at the photo of the back of the wallet - the top of the middle strip, the right side of the flap over the zipper and the middle of the right side. I could probably live with it as is but I'd like to know if anyone has suggestions that might help. Here's a link to the photos:

http://www.lunaboston.com/ProductInfo/Hayden-Harnett/17764.aspx

Thanks!
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If you can't rub it out with your fingertips, it's probably a variation in the finish.
It's barely noticable on my monitor. I LOVE lead, and it's gorgeous on the wallet!
I think a little scuffing is normal and adds to it's charm. Remember, lotion conditioners and alcohol-based sprays will steal the shine, so don't go there.
I'll be doing some experimentation and will let you know if I can come up with a soultion. :peace:
 
#19
Thanks Stormy for your tips - so Mr Magic is back under the sink - but I might have a play with the eraser on those dirty streaks on my Lorca..

OK - I am going to go for broke and hit hypothetical... I know that you have already expressed an opinion on this Yellow Nico but just to give us something tangible to play with (and this has to be worst case scenario) - how would you tackle a refurb on this???

Could you give us a diagnosis/prognosis????
 
#20
treesrgreen said:
Ok
I have been learning about Lexol Products...

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It looks really straight forward - one cleanser, one conditioner... (and Neatsfoot formula???? - ¿Que?:confused1:)
Don't worry bout Neatsfoot formula for bags, but it's great for Winter boots and shoes you wear in the rain ! Lexol can be used on wet leather, too. You don't have to wait for a soaked item to dry out (which could damage it)
Use Neatsfoot to restore very seriously dried old backpacks, etc. It's what I used
on baseball gloves when I was a kid, to 'break in' the new leather. Lexol made them soft and pliable.

So can we work backwards??- of course we will always do a spot test first - but would you use the Lexol on any of the non-metallic 'softer' (Havana capable) HH leather??? (blush, chalk, plum, olive, chocolate, black, ruby, tango, ink, colbalt, currant......)
YES, YES, YES, YES, YES and YES !!!!!
**use the" for light colored leather" formula for chalk and blush**

How do you go about it? Do you condition as soon as you get the purse (as a protectant) - and then clean as per needed? Do you recondition frequently?
A brand new bag shouldn't need conditioning, just a little spray rain and stain protectant, like Wilson's or Kiwi (Meltonian). Certainly you could use the Lexol as a protectant, and if you acquire a pre-loved or older bag that hadn't been used yet, Lexol right away !
Recondition after leather has been exposed to the elements (a lot of sun or rain) or a cleansing (even spot cleaning) There's no one rule because storage and usage varies.
If you live in a dry climate or your house lacks humidity, your bags will need conditioning more frequently. If OTOH, you are tropical, keep your bags as airy and dry as possible and condition rarely.

(I am entering into a new world - I used to wear a purse to death and dispose of it at the end of a season - but my HH babies are not going any where - so now I need to learn how to take care of them!)
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The only downside is your bags will stay like new and you may need to find other reasons to shop.
PS ** Store Havanas and Nicos FLAT, with flaps unfolded, not stuffed and upright or they will develop extra wrinkles. Invest in flannel pillowcases ~ HH bags are too small for proper storage.
The rule is flat constructed bags store flat, shaped bags need stuffing . Always cover hardware with tissue and open flaps so they don't learn to bend funny.
 
#21
treesrgreen said:
Thanks Stormy for your tips - so Mr Magic is back under the sink - but I might have a play with the eraser on those dirty streaks on my Lorca..

OK - I am going to go for broke and hit hypothetical... I know that you have already expressed an opinion on this Yellow Nico but just to give us something tangible to play with (and this has to be worst case scenario) - how would you tackle a refurb on this???

Could you give us a diagnosis/prognosis????
Click to expand...

You're welcome ! IF that thing came thru my door ~ First I'd try Lexol cleaner on the stains, and Amodex on the ink, then it'd be doused with Murphy's and rubbed in by hand and brushed in the worst spots, then tossed into the washing machine (with a couple towels for friction) in cold water. gentle cycle. Rinsed twice and blot dry with towels and air dried. It would need conditioning next. So, depending on how this extreme care routine worked, we may or may not go to a next step. If it needs color touch ups, I wouldn't expect miracles. :peace:
 
#23
I just used the regular strength. It worked wonders on a bag I had, with no damage. One must be gentle and careful. I never would have thought of this until I found out the LV ladies use them, and successfully, for their vachetta bags.

You can do a tPF search and find all the threads about using it.

I would only do it in a dire emergency, because yes, Stormy is right, it's a very very fine abrasive. But it works.

treesrgreen said:
Yeah - actually it was the extra power one that I used (I think that it was this freebie as well - I went on a manic sign up for freebies one night - and things just keep turning up in the mail...). But hmmmm - just looked at the box - and there were instructions :shame:. Really simple ones actually..

There is a section called 'How to Use' with photos...
i) Wet
ii) Erase

Whoops - that accounts for all of the messy bits.

So do you use this India? Would you recommend it for the blush? In any case I am going to try it again on a few strips of tassel - and see how it works...
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#24
"FIRST, DO NO HARM"

The HH we have been discussing are NOT VACHETTA.
Any leather with a smooth finish would suffer abrasives of any kind.
You may as well take fine sandpaper to remove a top dirty layer.
(BTW, you can use the back of an emery board on suede!)
You hear about 'fading' with MrC because the color has been removed,
both manually and chemically !
Vachetta is vegetable-dyed so it's color goes all the way through the leather.
Scraping some off will thin the leather but can't change color; it will roughen
(even if it feels smooth) the spot, making it vunerable to attracting MORE dirt.
In addition to that, if Vachetta has begun it's surface patination, the resulting
spot left by mrC will be lighter & look just as bad, or worse. I understand the
'logic' behind using this product on handles and bottom corners, but routine use
will have sad long-term consequences, including breaking down the thread
holding everything together! If an item is 1) brand new,
2) Vachetta or drum-dyed, 3) marked so badly it absoulutely cannot
be brushed/washed off,
I would still simply not use MrC.
It's too easy to screw up and do permanent damage.
Since we're trying to stick with HH specific care here ~
HH Vachettas come in the form of distressed lambskin, and even these would
not benefit from MrClean, because they have an embossed finish.
There are safer ways to clean leather. Not as quick, but better.
Please save MrC for crayons on walls.

:peace:
 
#25
stormy - i am in awe of your knowledge about leathers!!! are you an artist or craftsperson who works with leather?

thanks so very much for sharing your expertise with us! i've learned so much from your posts!
 
#27
Hi everyone,

I bought a used Havana on eBay and it needs a thorough cleaning that I just can't do myself. I have never had a nice leather bag like this cleaned. How do I find a good, reputable leather cleaner nearby who I can trust with my baby? I'm in central Tennessee, if anyone lives around here and could recommend someone.
 
#29
My Gaza Hobo in Fir darkened after conditioning/spraying with Apple Garde. The darkening has not gone away, and I continue to use and love my Gaza. Stormy - perhaps you have greater insight..?
 
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