Birkin stitching direction

[ballsandbullets]

Hi all,

I figured I’d ask the experts! I’ve been looking into purchasing a Birkin secondhand and trying to educate myself about what to look for since it won’t be returnable. I know that the stitching isn’t supposed to be exactly straight (threaded at a slight angle), but I’m seeing some really angled and some almost straight.

Is there a desirable angle to see? Or essentially it’s just all over the place because they’re handmade?

Here’s some photos I was comparing:


Almost straight


Almost straight


Slanted


Really slanted

Essentially, if you had to choose, which of these stitching styles is more desirable?

Thank you!!

 

[maxroxxherhandbags]

Hi all,

I figured I’d ask the experts! I’ve been looking into purchasing a Birkin secondhand and trying to educate myself about what to look for since it won’t be returnable. I know that the stitching isn’t supposed to be exactly straight (threaded at a slight angle), but I’m seeing some really angled and some almost straight.

Is there a desirable angle to see? Or essentially it’s just all over the place because they’re handmade?

Here’s some photos I was comparing:

View attachment 5848387
Almost straight

View attachment 5848388
Almost straight

View attachment 5848390
Slanted

View attachment 5848391
Really slanted

Essentially, if you had to choose, which of these stitching styles is more desirable?

Thank you!!

View attachment 5848389

Personally I actually really like slanted stitching but it isn't a dealbreaker and not something I'd even think about when purchasing a 2nd hand bag (I'd worry more about the handle and if it needed replacing tbh, or a wobbly Turn-lock).
Unless its a contrast stitch the stitching doesn't actually show that much anyway.
Its not about what is most desirable its what one finds aesthetically most pleasing I think but once you actually own the bag I doubt you'll give the stitching a second glance (I have a gold coloured bag and dont really notice the stitching although its prominent)

 

[880]

educate myself about what to look for since it won’t be returnable.

I have one handbag with peerless stitching and it is pretty uniform, straight, perfect.

I have various Birkins and kelly bags, and it’s variable, the most sloppy being recent boutique B.
In general my Kelly bags have better stitching than my Bs, and sellier bags being harder to make,
have the best stitching. Old time TPFers used to say that bags from the nineties were that most beautifully
Crafted.

I have purchased many BK from resellers, and I do NOT recommend one that refuses returns.
(Esp. TRR). Always authenticate before purchase, pay with PayPal, backed with CC, and not a debit card
Or bank wire.

There are many threads and posts on resellers who are reputable and how to go about purchasing a BK from a reseller.

 

[CTLover]

Hi all,

I figured I’d ask the experts! I’ve been looking into purchasing a Birkin secondhand and trying to educate myself about what to look for since it won’t be returnable. I know that the stitching isn’t supposed to be exactly straight (threaded at a slight angle), but I’m seeing some really angled and some almost straight.

Is there a desirable angle to see? Or essentially it’s just all over the place because they’re handmade?

Here’s some photos I was comparing:

View attachment 5848387
Almost straight

View attachment 5848388
Almost straight

View attachment 5848390
Slanted

View attachment 5848391
Really slanted

Essentially, if you had to choose, which of these stitching styles is more desirable?

Thank you!!

I'd agree that I'd only deal with resellers willing to take a return within a reasonable period of time. As to the stitching, They're handcrafted bags so every artisan is likely to have slightly different stitching. As long as its neat and even, I never paid much attention to the stitching, other to admire the craftsmanship.

 

[papertiger]

It's like the question "how long is a piece of string?"

Buy from a reputable reseller/get authenticated by third party, or buy from the store

 

[r luvs h]

Saddle stitching does not necessarily have to be very slanted-- this is just something Hermès does for aesthetic, ornamental purposes. The slant of the stitch can usually be attributed to a combination of the pricking iron used and the craftsperson’s own style of stitching (this is especially true of sellier bags and older bags). I think a lot of people, myself included, prefer more slanted saddle stitching for the aesthetic appeal. In many cases, the stitching is not even consistently slanted or “straight” within the same piece. Especially with the brand’s increasing commercialisation, some parts of a bag will naturally have straighter, more slanted, neater, or messier stitching due to the way these bags are constructed nowadays.

Apart from the aesthetic appeal of slanted stitching, super straight/flat stitching can sometimes be a sign of overtightening of the stitches*. For example, on this Birkin from 2000**, you can see where some of the (relatively flat) stitches were done so tightly that they tore straight through the leather over time:



To be clear, this is very rare and straight stitching does not always equate to overtightened stitching. Nonetheless, if given the option, I would choose more slanted stitching over flatter stitching any day. Also, as others have said, you really should avoid sellers who don't offer a return policy.

*Explanation: as a stitch is tightened, it will flatten out. This puts strain on the leather and could eventually cause it to tear.
**This bag is not my own. I cannot remember exactly where I saw it, but it looks like it could be from Fashionphile.

Edited to clarify.

 

[ballsandbullets]

Thanks everyone!

 

[ballsandbullets]

Saddle stitching does not necessarily have to be very slanted-- this is just something Hermès does for aesthetic, ornamental purposes. The slant of the stitch can usually be attributed to a combination of the pricking iron used and the craftsperson’s own style of stitching (this is especially true of sellier bags and older bags). I think a lot of people, myself included, prefer more slanted saddle stitching for the aesthetic appeal. In many cases, the stitching is not even consistently slanted or “straight” within the same piece. Especially with the brand’s increasing commercialisation, some parts of a bag will naturally have straighter, more slanted, neater, or messier stitching due to the way these bags are constructed nowadays.

Apart from the aesthetic appeal of slanted stitching, super straight/flat stitching can sometimes be a sign of overtightening of the stitches*. For example, on this Birkin from 2000**, you can see where some of the (relatively flat) stitches were done so tightly that they tore straight through the leather over time:

View attachment 5848728

To be clear, this is very rare and straight stitching does not always equate to overtightened stitching. Nonetheless, if given the option, I would choose more slanted stitching over flatter stitching any day. Also, as others have said, you really should avoid sellers who don't offer a return policy.

*Explanation: as a stitch is tightened, it will flatten out. This puts strain on the leather and could eventually cause it to tear.
**This bag is not my own. I cannot remember exactly where I saw it, but it looks like it could be from Fashionphile.

Edited to clarify.

Thank you so much for educating me! This is an incredibly nuanced response and helpful to keep in mind when choosing a bag.

 

[acrowcounted]

Saddle stitching does not necessarily have to be very slanted-- this is just something Hermès does for aesthetic, ornamental purposes. The slant of the stitch can usually be attributed to a combination of the pricking iron used and the craftsperson’s own style of stitching (this is especially true of sellier bags and older bags). I think a lot of people, myself included, prefer more slanted saddle stitching for the aesthetic appeal. In many cases, the stitching is not even consistently slanted or “straight” within the same piece. Especially with the brand’s increasing commercialisation, some parts of a bag will naturally have straighter, more slanted, neater, or messier stitching due to the way these bags are constructed nowadays.

Apart from the aesthetic appeal of slanted stitching, super straight/flat stitching can sometimes be a sign of overtightening of the stitches*. For example, on this Birkin from 2000**, you can see where some of the (relatively flat) stitches were done so tightly that they tore straight through the leather over time:

View attachment 5848728

To be clear, this is very rare and straight stitching does not always equate to overtightened stitching. Nonetheless, if given the option, I would choose more slanted stitching over flatter stitching any day. Also, as others have said, you really should avoid sellers who don't offer a return policy.

*Explanation: as a stitch is tightened, it will flatten out. This puts strain on the leather and could eventually cause it to tear.
**This bag is not my own. I cannot remember exactly where I saw it, but it looks like it could be from Fashionphile.

Edited to clarify.

Oh no, new Hermes newbie paranoia unlocked.

 

[r luvs h]

Oh no, new Hermes newbie paranoia unlocked.

 

[Beauty2c]

Found a helpful article on hand stitching.

Recognizing a saddle stitch vs machine stitch seam

What is the difference between a handmade saddle stitch sewing and a sewing machine sewing? Revelations on your Hermès, Louis Vuitton bags.

www.malle2luxe.fr

• the direction of inclination of the thread on the face and the reverse.
  On the machine-seamed side: the inclination goes upwards
  On the hand-seamed side: the inclination is downwards

ANALYSIS OF THE SEAMS OF A HERMÈS BIRKIN BAG:​

 

[sphere99]

When did Hermes switch from longer stitches to the shorter ones I see these days?