An ode to bygone LV quality and the round "croissant" keyholder

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waugse

GHW purist
O.G.
Dec 30, 2011
253
62
Just before the price increase, I have bit the bullet and bought a 6 ring in Empreinte as I want to retire my current round "croissant" 6 ring GM after over 10 years of daily service in order to preserve this impeccably made piece.

I love this item so much and have gotten so much use out of it every single day. It moved with me and housed keys of 3 different flats, two of which are somewhat distant memories now. I was long buying holy grail bags, one more fabulous than the other, but at the end of this I realise my holy grail is this tiny little keyholder that makes me smile without fail every single time I pull it out of my bag.

The design of the croissant shaped 6 ring has proven superior to the design of the rectangular 6 ring as the croissant cannot suffer from the misalignment or accidental bents that the rectangulars frequently do. Over the past couple of years, I ordered the rectangular 6 ring in canvas on multiple occasions to take over from my trusty croissant, but each time I was shocked at the difference in quality. The rectangular ones all arrived crooked, with (usually the left) corner of the front "flap" sitting higher, skewed, than the right or one of the corners sticking up as if it had been bent out of shape. The canvas felt so different, light and flimsy in comparison to the one on my croissant. The buttons on the new rectangulars all arrived slightly tarnished or scratched, which doesn't bode well for the longevity of the current hardware. My croissant, despite being a workhorse for the past 10+ years, doesn't really show any wear at all. Not on the glazing, not on the canvas (despite it being folded no cracks ever appeared), not on the inside, not on the outside. The hardware of the key hooks looks still shiny and gold. Maybe the button is slightly tarnished in its center but you wouldn't believe how hard this item worked if you looked at it. On multiple occasions it took a nose dive onto the pavement, yet you cannot tell. It's due to the far better structural design, which holds itself in shape very nicely as well as the superior material quality.

With the price increase looming and myself still looking for a 6 ring to take over from the croissant, I ended up trying my luck again with a 6 ring in Empreinte, which arrived a few days ago. It's my first Empreinte piece and it's lovely. It does appear to match my canvas croissant in sturdiness, so I will finally keep this one. This is the only LV piece I have bought in many years and I only bought it because I made such great experiences with its predecessor from bygone times, not because current LV is in any way appealing to me. The artistic direction, well, not my cup of tea. I was a Sofia Coppola Bag kind of girl, understated supple leathers and understated canvas SLGs. LVMH unfortunately decided a few years ago that they wanted to take the Supreme hype beast route in terms of style, releasing pieces so gaudy that they appear like fakes. Of course the flimsy quality doesn't help with the fake look.

The price for value does not check out anymore. I'm not sure the current strategy to create artifical scarcity around the stock, is working out the way LV wants to, either. I thought it was to move up to a different clientele, but whenever I walk past my local LV, there are only young girls and boys queuing outside, who clearly don't belong to the income bracket LV appears to be aiming for. Good for them, I too was one of them when I first got into LV back in the day, but it just goes to show that this pricing strategy doesn't seem to have the desired effect. The wealthy, who want true exclusivity, still don't show up at the stores (they all order online, the hotline or via personal shoppers) and the longtime loyal upper middle class customers simply get frustrated and turned off with the dwindling quality and the poor availability. If one has to deal with high prices and poor availabily, why not move on to Hermes in that case and get excellent quality? Certainly, this is an anecdotal observation, but in my circle most of us have moved exactly into this direction. Not because any of us ever had Hermes on the radar as a goal, but because LV became so unattractive over time that we started to look for alternatives.

In the not-so-distant future, LV will also have priced out a large chunk of their new customer base, those lovely young people, who want to invest their hard-earned money into a good-quality starter piece. I'm curious to watch from afar what clientele will be left in the end. I honestly have no idea as LV's current strategy seems erratic and entirely ignorant of its consequences.

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I totally concur with much of what you have stated. I do consider myself lucky for having had the experience of knowing the brand before the rapid "fast fashion" and monthly releases, such items only to be forgotten and never reaching iconic status of what the bygone LV has represented. These icons are hardly available for purchase, being rare/scarce or of shoddy workmanship if you do happen to acquire one. I will re-read your "ode" every time I look at my vintage pieces and consider selling them off !! :girlsigh:

p.s. You have definitely gotten your money's worth on that vintage key holder !! :love::tup:
 
Love that vintage keyholder. I went online to find one but no luck. The shape is perfect for its purposes, and completely makes sense.

I do appreciate the quality of the old pieces, and I've been loving and collecting LV for over 30 years. I too have been confused the past 5-6 years, as the brand seems to have joined the very fast changing mentality of many other big brands, like Chanel (not Hermes which seems to have stayed relatively constant), small, short lived collections. I think that is a marketing strategy, which has served Chanel well, and in many respects served LV too. But if you look at all brands, not just in fashion but in every aspect of life, technology, automobiles, even home appliances, (always get the extended warranty on washers and dryers because they die at the 5 year mark, planned obsolescence) everything changes so much more quickly than 20-30 years ago, let alone 30-40 years ago. Things don't stay around. Styles don't stay. Companies adapt or die.

In general, I can see why you say quality has suffered, and in many respects that is almost an inevitability. As the world population grows, the demand for the product grows, not to mention the improved marketing that fuels that demand. They are are required to produce more products in a shorter period of time. Production infrastructure cannot keep pace with it and thus quality suffers. Generation after generation of LV buyers have different mindsets and values, so the company must change its styles and offerings to keep attracting more buyers. One of the biggest gripes I had in the 80s and 90s was the practicality of the LV bags. Often times they either too heavy or they did not offer the crossbody option, or it had too much vachetta or did not have zippers in the right places to keep your good secure when used in cities and crowded places, etc. With the need to change their styles all the time, they have evolved to being almost the most practical luxury brand. They now offer so many styles that one is almost guaranteed to find one that is functional for them. For example, I have nerve problems with my shoulder. I tried Chanel, but their chain straps are uncomfortable and/or painful given the weight of their bags. I've looked and tried various bags at a huge expense and found only one bag that works for my life and that is my style, the SO black rectangular mini. I came back to LV and greatly appreciate the lightness of the leather, the strap options, size and functionality, and the ease to try, buy and return, as opposed to Chanel where you don't often find the bag you want to "try" at a boutique because they are sold out, and the only way to test it is to buy it. Nevermind Hermes. Because LV innovates (changes), they now offer bags that are lighter and easier to wear. Some people see this as a negative, as a reduction to quality. For me and probably some others, it's a benefit. I've held a few Hermes bags, and even if completely empty, they are too heavy for me. The light ones don't have the capacity I need. But this is a result of Hermes not really innovating, and sticking with their styles and production process. I think that this strategy works for Hermes and maintains a loyal core or clients, and other clients that appreciate that. But even if I could allow myself to spend $10K and above on a bag, it's not functional for me and never will be, which is fine for them because they don't want me as a client anyway.

So I'm not completely hopeless about where LV will go. I have accepted that they will constantly change, innovate. I have tuned out for some seasons that are completely NOT for me, like the light pastels they offered in the summer, and fuzzy monogram that they offered about a year ago? But the recent speedy 20s, and some of their leather bags are bringing me back. They are willing to take a risk that some will go wrong and in that same process, some can go very right. Finally a smaller speedy that still fits the kitchen sink, and big wide straps that are super comfortable. It will be interesting to see what happens.

I hope you will find some pieces that work for your life and fit your aesthetic. I think, in the end, LV is still the brand for me.
 
I also agree totally with you. Your vintage keyholder just did a great job and the quality from LV items before 2016 was so so much better. My first LV item was a Pochette Accessoires which I purchased in 2015 preloved, the bag itself had a datecode with 2013 with it and I’ve paid 230€ for it. I’ve sold it just around 2 years ago for 250€ and it still was in brand new condition almost. Now the price of the PA went so much overboard.
Also I do see a lot of Young People at our local LV store too, around 16-19 years old maybe and usually in big groups. That also makes me wonder, „how?“ but nowadays seems to be so normal to get luxury things even for the younger ones by mum and dad probably.
An even tho my parents did spoil me a bit back in the days, they would never ever pay for „luxury items“ for me.

Even tho I did tried out other brands such as givenchy, YSL, Chloe and Gucci. I’m always finding myself going back to LV.
Mainly because I like how LV always comes up with new Colour and ideas. Besides that even with the PI LV is still one of the more „affordable“ luxury brands. I, personally couldn’t spent that money on a Chanel or a Hermes bag. I would needed to sell at least 3-4 from my Lv bags for that and I would rather own 3-4 bags then just one.
The empreinte key pouch will Definitely do a great job for you, and If something gonna ever happen to it one day and over the years, it’s leather and can be easily repaired by specialist :flowers:
 
I totally agree with you! Quality has gone downhill for most things overall. The newer LV items can’t compare with older ones. I love your croissant key holder! I just reorganized part of my closet - all of my slg’s. I’ve only been buying them (stalking and having the full addiction) for about 11 years. The older ones are still in amazing condition. The canvas of my older wallets is thick. Not squishy and bendable like the newer ones. It annoys me that so many items are unavailable on the website - it’s a sign of the times. Shortages of workers and materials. I’ve been shopping my closet and H. There’s nothing like that supple leather ❤️
 
Just before the price increase, I have bit the bullet and bought a 6 ring in Empreinte as I want to retire my current round "croissant" 6 ring GM after over 10 years of daily service in order to preserve this impeccably made piece.

I love this item so much and have gotten so much use out of it every single day. It moved with me and housed keys of 3 different flats, two of which are somewhat distant memories now. I was long buying holy grail bags, one more fabulous than the other, but at the end of this I realise my holy grail is this tiny little keyholder that makes me smile without fail every single time I pull it out of my bag.

The design of the croissant shaped 6 ring has proven superior to the design of the rectangular 6 ring as the croissant cannot suffer from the misalignment or accidental bents that the rectangulars frequently do. Over the past couple of years, I ordered the rectangular 6 ring in canvas on multiple occasions to take over from my trusty croissant, but each time I was shocked at the difference in quality. The rectangular ones all arrived crooked, with (usually the left) corner of the front "flap" sitting higher, skewed, than the right or one of the corners sticking up as if it had been bent out of shape. The canvas felt so different, light and flimsy in comparison to the one on my croissant. The buttons on the new rectangulars all arrived slightly tarnished or scratched, which doesn't bode well for the longevity of the current hardware. My croissant, despite being a workhorse for the past 10+ years, doesn't really show any wear at all. Not on the glazing, not on the canvas (despite it being folded no cracks ever appeared), not on the inside, not on the outside. The hardware of the key hooks looks still shiny and gold. Maybe the button is slightly tarnished in its center but you wouldn't believe how hard this item worked if you looked at it. On multiple occasions it took a nose dive onto the pavement, yet you cannot tell. It's due to the far better structural design, which holds itself in shape very nicely as well as the superior material quality.

With the price increase looming and myself still looking for a 6 ring to take over from the croissant, I ended up trying my luck again with a 6 ring in Empreinte, which arrived a few days ago. It's my first Empreinte piece and it's lovely. It does appear to match my canvas croissant in sturdiness, so I will finally keep this one. This is the only LV piece I have bought in many years and I only bought it because I made such great experiences with its predecessor from bygone times, not because current LV is in any way appealing to me. The artistic direction, well, not my cup of tea. I was a Sofia Coppola Bag kind of girl, understated supple leathers and understated canvas SLGs. LVMH unfortunately decided a few years ago that they wanted to take the Supreme hype beast route in terms of style, releasing pieces so gaudy that they appear like fakes. Of course the flimsy quality doesn't help with the fake look.

The price for value does not check out anymore. I'm not sure the current strategy to create artifical scarcity around the stock, is working out the way LV wants to, either. I thought it was to move up to a different clientele, but whenever I walk past my local LV, there are only young girls and boys queuing outside, who clearly don't belong to the income bracket LV appears to be aiming for. Good for them, I too was one of them when I first got into LV back in the day, but it just goes to show that this pricing strategy doesn't seem to have the desired effect. The wealthy, who want true exclusivity, still don't show up at the stores (they all order online, the hotline or via personal shoppers) and the longtime loyal upper middle class customers simply get frustrated and turned off with the dwindling quality and the poor availability. If one has to deal with high prices and poor availabily, why not move on to Hermes in that case and get excellent quality? Certainly, this is an anecdotal observation, but in my circle most of us have moved exactly into this direction. Not because any of us ever had Hermes on the radar as a goal, but because LV became so unattractive over time that we started to look for alternatives.

In the not-so-distant future, LV will also have priced out a large chunk of their new customer base, those lovely young people, who want to invest their hard-earned money into a good-quality starter piece. I'm curious to watch from afar what clientele will be left in the end. I honestly have no idea as LV's current strategy seems erratic and entirely ignorant of its consequences.

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I love this post. I read it twice. I do not approve of LV's marketing strategy, and I think it is backfiring. That being said, I love being a vintage bag owner, and this just gives me affirmations.
 
I am afraid that the "longtime loyal upper middle class customers" are a minority already. Long ago. Vuitton is only interested in profit, which was the case forever. A 100 years ago their target audience were the folks from Downton Abbey (not from downstairs, obviously :smile:). After the wars the European and American middle class widened: lawyers, doctors, businessmen could afford Vuitton, and there was way more of them than the Earls and Dukes and Princes of the previous era. So Vuitton targeted them. Marketing was adjusted accordingly, they did not want to sell you the dream of becoming upper class by getting Vuitton, but a new position that was even higher than that: the movie star. The icons and ambassadors of fashion were A-list actresses: Audrey and Grace Kelly back then, and now Lea Seydoux and Jeniffer Connelly. But this is the end of that era, they are replaced by Emma Chamberlain and the Dolan twins. Who are the faces of a new Vuitton that you don't buy to last generations, but purely to show off wealth, and only in that moment. And now they target the nouveau riche of other geographic regions, and their hypebeast children. They are (again) bigger in size than the previous target audience, and they are not after classic pieces, but after the seasonal stuff. Which is not to be bought every 10 years, but 6x a year now.
I would be very curious how the Japanese market will react on the long run. They are big and are into Vuitton historically, all generations, not just the kids and Insta folks. Maybe their answer will matter. We in Europe are small and insignificant, most of the European sales numbers are from Asian tourists already, the local clientele mostly serve only as a background crowd to complement their shopping experience. So it doesn't really matter if we are displeased with the artistic and marketing directions.
 
Absolutely agree with this post. I own the Round Key Holder GM too, and alongside my zipped 6-key holder (vintage and I'm unsure of the proper name!) it is my favourite. It fits so wonderfully in the hand, much more so than the rectangular 6-key that is available now (if it ever is available!) The zipped key holder is from 1995 and is still in absolutely fantastic shape, a true testament to what LV used to be. The Round GM is also holding up extremely well. I can't for the life of me find the date code, but I would estimate that it's probably from around 2014.

It's a real shame that LV doesn't appear to apply the same attention to detail and quality control to newly released pieces.

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These two pieces will always be in my collection.
 
Great thread. I did a side-by-side comparison of my 2007 Damier Azur wallet (which I have used fairly frequently over the last almost-15 years) and the Damier Azur pochette cles I purchased new earlier this year. The cles almost felt like a fake next to my trusty old Koala Wallet. And this is the DA print, which people shy away from for being so light-colored, but my 2007 wallet still looks amazing (granted I do not mistreat my SLGs or bags).

I am very, very discerning at this point about what I will purchase from LV. I can safely say I am finished buying new pieces from them -- I am happy with what I have and don't trust quality to ever improve to keep pace with price increases. The only bag I have left on my list is the Mon Monogram Speedy B 30 which is still in production, and I have fingers crossed that because it is bespoke and one of a kind, special care will be taken in its manufacture. But that's still no guarantee that it will arrive in flawless condition one would expect for a $2000+ bag.
 
I am afraid that the "longtime loyal upper middle class customers" are a minority already. Long ago. Vuitton is only interested in profit, which was the case forever.
[...]
I would be very curious how the Japanese market will react on the long run. They are big and are into Vuitton historically, all generations, not just the kids and Insta folks. Maybe their answer will matter. We in Europe are small and insignificant, most of the European sales numbers are from Asian tourists already, the local clientele mostly serve only as a background crowd to complement their shopping experience. So it doesn't really matter if we are displeased with the artistic and marketing directions.
This is a very illuminating breakdown, thank you very much. I could not agree more now that I am looking at the whole matter through your lens.

It fits so wonderfully in the hand, much more so than the rectangular 6-key that is available now (if it ever is available!)
I wholeheartedly concur about the round key holder fitting so perfectly in ones hand. I think it's precisely because of this shape and fit, that it wears so well. There are simply no corners that can get bent out of shape while bearing the brunt of a too aggressive pull or sudden fall. No matter if it's nestled into one's palm, inside a bag or crushing onto the pavement, the round shape compensates so much friction and tension that a rectanguar shape would experience full force.

I cannot speak for the times before I got into LV, but I think the years between 2010 and 2015 were a golden generation. Pieces like the round key holder, but also the Eva clutch, Zippy Compact wallet and Totally embody the quality, functionality and durability of that era.
 
This is a very illuminating breakdown, thank you very much. I could not agree more now that I am looking at the whole matter through your lens.


I wholeheartedly concur about the round key holder fitting so perfectly in ones hand. I think it's precisely because of this shape and fit, that it wears so well. There are simply no corners that can get bent out of shape while bearing the brunt of a too aggressive pull or sudden fall. No matter if it's nestled into one's palm, inside a bag or crushing onto the pavement, the round shape compensates so much friction and tension that a rectanguar shape would experience full force.

I cannot speak for the times before I got into LV, but I think the years between 2010 and 2015 were a golden generation. Pieces like the round key holder, but also the Eva clutch, Zippy Compact wallet and Totally embody the quality, functionality and durability of that era.
I agree with a lot of what is being said about quality, but have to disagree on the reference to the Totally. I had 3 of them in all 3 prints (the MM size) and have had to sell 2 because of the infamous bulging crease that develops across the front flap, no matter how carefully I stored them. Vuitton ended the stiffer lining in the middle of the flap for some reason, which caused the crease over time. I bought an older preloved Eva and love its quality.
 
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