I found an article on a Longchamp stockist's website this morning that I thought would be of some interest to many of you. Since Google Translate still isn't very precise concerning expressions, idioms and technical terms, I translated the article from French to English myself. Warning: long read 
Enjoy 
Original link: https://www.beausoleilmaroquinerie.fr/le-blog/comment-sont-fabriques-sacs-made-by-longchamp/
How are Longchamp bags made?
Made by Longchamp: leatherworking with Longchamp
Leather has been Longchamp’s favourite material since the brand was founded, and is an integral part of the brand’s DNA. Longchamp is well-known in the world of fine leather goods thanks to its storied heritage and years of industry experience. In this article, you will discover how Longchamp selects its skins, and how it uses leather to create beautifully crafted handbags and other accessories.
Longchamp: French excellence
Made by Longchamp: leather on centre stage
Longchamp has been using leather since the beginning of the 1940s. Originally, the brand specialised in the manufacture of tobacco pipes wrapped in leather. At the time, luxury tobacco pipes were a highly coveted status symbol for a discerning clientele. 15 years later, the Cassegrain family began to diversify the brand’s collections, starting with small leather goods such as passport holders and men’s billfolds.
Where are Longchamp’s bags made?
Currently, Longchamp has six factories located in western France, in the départements of Mayenne, Vendée, Orne and Maine-et-Loire - the latter of which is host to the famous Segré ateliers. This family-owned company's know-how continues to impress thanks to Longchamp’s talented artisans and craftspeople. The 25 ateliers employ over 800 people across France.
The brand also owns two production sites abroad in Tunisia and Mauritius. They also maintain partnerships with factories in Romania, China and Morocco.
For the sake of transparency and to reinforce consumer trust, Longchamp always indicates the countries in which goods are made on the item’s interior tags. ‘Made by Longchamp’ signifies that craftsmanship and quality control remain consistent, no matter where your item was created.
‘Made by Longchamp’ leather: quality materials and techniques
Eco-friendly manufacturing
At Longchamp, creating fine leather goods is now greener than ever. Leather used by the brand is sourced from the meat industry, a byproduct from abattoirs (slaughterhouses in US English). Conscious of the environmental and ethical impacts of leather production, Longchamp no longer uses exotic leathers such as crocodile, ostrich and lizard.
All about leather
Leather has two distinct layers.
1. Grain is the first layer of skin on a hide, and is considered the highest quality part. It has all of the visual qualities that one would associate with a natural product.
2. Corium is the inner layer of skin.
During the tanning process, the thickest hides are often split in order to reduce the final product’s thickness. This consists of cutting the skin into two distinct halves, the grain and the corium. Full grain and top grain items are manufactured from the grain, and split leather items from the corium.
Types of leather used by Longchamp
Longchamp mostly uses cow and sheep leathers, with a preference for younger, higher quality animals. Since leather is a natural product, each and every hide is unique.
Cowhide (FR: Vachette): Sourced from Europe and Brazil, and the most frequently used leather due to its thickness and durability. Used in the Foulonné, Xtra, Roseau and Mailbox collections, and for the handles and flaps of nylon Pliage items.
Bullcalf (FR: Taurillon): Longchamp uses animals from Spain, aged between 18 and 24 months old. It is a high quality leather that is both thick and resistant to wear. Used in the Pénélope and Roseau Essential collections.
Calfskin (FR: Veau): six to 8 month old animals from the Netherlands and France are used. This supple leather features a fine grain and delicate hand feel, and is sometimes used to create haircalf items. Found in the 3D, Roseau Luxe and Box-Trot collections.
Lambskin (FR: Agneau): Lambs around a year old from France and Spain are used. This skin is wonderfully flexible and soft, thanks to its finesse and light weight. Used in the Brioche collection.
Métis: This leather comes from hairsheep breeds, which are distinct from sheep used in wool production. Sourced from South Africa, these supple and lightweight hides are surprisingly durable and have the qualities of both lambskin and goatskin. The name means ‘mixed’ (with a connotation of mixed-breed in this context) in French. Used in the Pliage Cuir collection.
Sheepskin (FR: Mouton): Longchamp uses sheepskin mostly for shearling products. Sourced from Portugal. Used in the Mailbox duo collection.
*Pronunciation guide for English speakers: Vachette = vah-SHET, Taurillon = toe-ree-ohn, Veau = voh, Agneau = an-YOH, Métis = may-TEECE, Mouton = moo-TOHN, Roseau = rose-OH, Brioche = BREEOHshh, Foulonné = foo-low-nay, Cuir = kweer (approximately, this one's tough)
Hide tanning: from skin to leather
Tanning transforms raw skins into leather. It is a chemical process that changes the protein structure of the skin, increasing its durability and resistance to rot.
Many different tanning techniques are used by the modern leather industry. Tannerie Haas in Alsace works with Longchamp and other luxury brands, and they use the following process:
1. Receiving raw skins: the tannery receives animal skins directly from abattoirs.
2. Pre-treating: the skin is now washed (known as soaking and liming in English) in order to eliminate proteins and impurities that remain on its surface. Next, hair is removed from the skin. At the end of this step, the skin is now called the ‘tripe’ in French.
3. Tanning: during this stage, the skin is soaked in chromium sulfate and other chemicals (chrome tanning in English) or tannins from bark and leaves, if the skin is to be vegetable tanned. In the chrome tanning process, this mix produces a product known as ‘wet blue’. It turns the hide’s collagen blue and helps it to resist decomposition.
4. Quality control, sorting and selection: at this point, the tannery sorts the ‘wet blue’ into different categories depending on their quality. The highest quality bags are made from the highest quality skins.
5. Dyeing: the skin is now dyed in various colours.
6. Drying: skins can either be air-dried, or dried in a special oven. Eliminating moisture from the skin creates a product known as the ‘crust’.
7. Finishing: the ‘crust’ can now be waxed, rolled, drummed or polished in order to improve its appearance and durability. At the end of this step, the skin can now be considered finished leather.
Each of these steps plays an important role in creating quality leather goods, both aesthetically and to make it possible for the item to develop a fine patina.
Finishing touches: an essential step in creating a high end product
As stated earlier in the article, each skin is unique. The leather’s final appearance is the result of the tanning and finishing process. There are many techniques that can be used to finish an item, and they have influence over…
- the visual impact of the bag or SLG.
- the leather’s colour, and designs that can be printed upon it.
- the texture, grain and embossing, such as the crosshatch pattern seen on the Pliage line’s Russia leather, the pebbled texture of the Foulonné collection, or croc-embossed items. Debossing is another technique that is used to create lines like La Voyageuse and LGP Cuir.
- the level of shine, as seen on as the special edition Pliage Cuir Gloss and other patent leather items.
- treatments designed to increase durability and resistance towards everyday wear and tear such as scuffing, UV damage, and stains. A high quality item should develop a patina and become more beautiful as time passes.
Enjoy Original link: https://www.beausoleilmaroquinerie.fr/le-blog/comment-sont-fabriques-sacs-made-by-longchamp/
How are Longchamp bags made?
Made by Longchamp: leatherworking with Longchamp
Leather has been Longchamp’s favourite material since the brand was founded, and is an integral part of the brand’s DNA. Longchamp is well-known in the world of fine leather goods thanks to its storied heritage and years of industry experience. In this article, you will discover how Longchamp selects its skins, and how it uses leather to create beautifully crafted handbags and other accessories.
Longchamp: French excellence
Made by Longchamp: leather on centre stage
Longchamp has been using leather since the beginning of the 1940s. Originally, the brand specialised in the manufacture of tobacco pipes wrapped in leather. At the time, luxury tobacco pipes were a highly coveted status symbol for a discerning clientele. 15 years later, the Cassegrain family began to diversify the brand’s collections, starting with small leather goods such as passport holders and men’s billfolds.
Where are Longchamp’s bags made?
Currently, Longchamp has six factories located in western France, in the départements of Mayenne, Vendée, Orne and Maine-et-Loire - the latter of which is host to the famous Segré ateliers. This family-owned company's know-how continues to impress thanks to Longchamp’s talented artisans and craftspeople. The 25 ateliers employ over 800 people across France.
The brand also owns two production sites abroad in Tunisia and Mauritius. They also maintain partnerships with factories in Romania, China and Morocco.
For the sake of transparency and to reinforce consumer trust, Longchamp always indicates the countries in which goods are made on the item’s interior tags. ‘Made by Longchamp’ signifies that craftsmanship and quality control remain consistent, no matter where your item was created.
‘Made by Longchamp’ leather: quality materials and techniques
Eco-friendly manufacturing
At Longchamp, creating fine leather goods is now greener than ever. Leather used by the brand is sourced from the meat industry, a byproduct from abattoirs (slaughterhouses in US English). Conscious of the environmental and ethical impacts of leather production, Longchamp no longer uses exotic leathers such as crocodile, ostrich and lizard.
All about leather
Leather has two distinct layers.
1. Grain is the first layer of skin on a hide, and is considered the highest quality part. It has all of the visual qualities that one would associate with a natural product.
2. Corium is the inner layer of skin.
During the tanning process, the thickest hides are often split in order to reduce the final product’s thickness. This consists of cutting the skin into two distinct halves, the grain and the corium. Full grain and top grain items are manufactured from the grain, and split leather items from the corium.
Types of leather used by Longchamp
Longchamp mostly uses cow and sheep leathers, with a preference for younger, higher quality animals. Since leather is a natural product, each and every hide is unique.
Cowhide (FR: Vachette): Sourced from Europe and Brazil, and the most frequently used leather due to its thickness and durability. Used in the Foulonné, Xtra, Roseau and Mailbox collections, and for the handles and flaps of nylon Pliage items.
Bullcalf (FR: Taurillon): Longchamp uses animals from Spain, aged between 18 and 24 months old. It is a high quality leather that is both thick and resistant to wear. Used in the Pénélope and Roseau Essential collections.
Calfskin (FR: Veau): six to 8 month old animals from the Netherlands and France are used. This supple leather features a fine grain and delicate hand feel, and is sometimes used to create haircalf items. Found in the 3D, Roseau Luxe and Box-Trot collections.
Lambskin (FR: Agneau): Lambs around a year old from France and Spain are used. This skin is wonderfully flexible and soft, thanks to its finesse and light weight. Used in the Brioche collection.
Métis: This leather comes from hairsheep breeds, which are distinct from sheep used in wool production. Sourced from South Africa, these supple and lightweight hides are surprisingly durable and have the qualities of both lambskin and goatskin. The name means ‘mixed’ (with a connotation of mixed-breed in this context) in French. Used in the Pliage Cuir collection.
Sheepskin (FR: Mouton): Longchamp uses sheepskin mostly for shearling products. Sourced from Portugal. Used in the Mailbox duo collection.
*Pronunciation guide for English speakers: Vachette = vah-SHET, Taurillon = toe-ree-ohn, Veau = voh, Agneau = an-YOH, Métis = may-TEECE, Mouton = moo-TOHN, Roseau = rose-OH, Brioche = BREEOHshh, Foulonné = foo-low-nay, Cuir = kweer (approximately, this one's tough)
Hide tanning: from skin to leather
Tanning transforms raw skins into leather. It is a chemical process that changes the protein structure of the skin, increasing its durability and resistance to rot.
Many different tanning techniques are used by the modern leather industry. Tannerie Haas in Alsace works with Longchamp and other luxury brands, and they use the following process:
1. Receiving raw skins: the tannery receives animal skins directly from abattoirs.
2. Pre-treating: the skin is now washed (known as soaking and liming in English) in order to eliminate proteins and impurities that remain on its surface. Next, hair is removed from the skin. At the end of this step, the skin is now called the ‘tripe’ in French.
3. Tanning: during this stage, the skin is soaked in chromium sulfate and other chemicals (chrome tanning in English) or tannins from bark and leaves, if the skin is to be vegetable tanned. In the chrome tanning process, this mix produces a product known as ‘wet blue’. It turns the hide’s collagen blue and helps it to resist decomposition.
4. Quality control, sorting and selection: at this point, the tannery sorts the ‘wet blue’ into different categories depending on their quality. The highest quality bags are made from the highest quality skins.
5. Dyeing: the skin is now dyed in various colours.
6. Drying: skins can either be air-dried, or dried in a special oven. Eliminating moisture from the skin creates a product known as the ‘crust’.
7. Finishing: the ‘crust’ can now be waxed, rolled, drummed or polished in order to improve its appearance and durability. At the end of this step, the skin can now be considered finished leather.
Each of these steps plays an important role in creating quality leather goods, both aesthetically and to make it possible for the item to develop a fine patina.
Finishing touches: an essential step in creating a high end product
As stated earlier in the article, each skin is unique. The leather’s final appearance is the result of the tanning and finishing process. There are many techniques that can be used to finish an item, and they have influence over…
- the visual impact of the bag or SLG.
- the leather’s colour, and designs that can be printed upon it.
- the texture, grain and embossing, such as the crosshatch pattern seen on the Pliage line’s Russia leather, the pebbled texture of the Foulonné collection, or croc-embossed items. Debossing is another technique that is used to create lines like La Voyageuse and LGP Cuir.
- the level of shine, as seen on as the special edition Pliage Cuir Gloss and other patent leather items.
- treatments designed to increase durability and resistance towards everyday wear and tear such as scuffing, UV damage, and stains. A high quality item should develop a patina and become more beautiful as time passes.
