Question: Re-issue chains & Bijoux chains

[BrigitteBag]

Chanel history experts! Question: Re-issue chains on vintage classic flaps, lambskin?

I've come across these on the pre-loved market and can't figure out the dates. Can an expert explain what appears to be re-issue chains on vintage Chanel Classic Flaps? We all know the Re-issue came out in 2005 -- did these come out after or before? I'm confused as when I see these listed on Fashionphile and other places, these are described as Bijoux chains, but they look like re-issue. I understand the Bijoux chain from the 2000s (can't remember the years) -- those appear thicker, but what of these thinner "re-issue" chains?

Photo 1 of black bag is the "re-issue" chain I'm seeing on vintage classic flaps

Photo 2 is the Bijoux chain on vintage pink Chanel flap

 

[Beverly]

This is mine.. and it was first released in 1977 if I'm not wrong, and then continued into the 80s before it became the reissue as you know it

 

[lallybelle]

I don't think that bag can be from the 70's. Karl made the CC lock and that wasn't until the early 80's when he became the creative director @ Chanel. It looks like it's just a hybrid version of the Classic Flap. Others who may know better can correct me if I'm wrong.

The 2nd is from 2008, it was called the "new" chain and not the same as the 2007 Bijoux chain. Which looks like this:

 

[Beverly]

Here's a photo of the bag (in jersey version), from 1973

"Street style shot by Gray Reginald in the 70's. "

But, this bag was in production all the way through the 80's! It's a gorgeous vintage now.. I absolutely love it.

 

[doni]

My understanding is that the bijou chain is the one in the first models designed and worn by Coco Chanel, and it has been used ever since, whether in combination with the interlocked CCs or the reissue turn lock. Karl Lagerfeld did not introduc the interlocked CCs logo but he is said to have devised the CC turn lock. I have an early 80s flap with the two CC and indeed, the closure is by snap button which I believe is typical of the age. however, it is true that in some vintage pics it looks like the bags do have a CC turn lock. So I am not sure whether the story that KL invented is true or he merely reintroduced it...

 

[ccbaggirl89]

My understanding is that the bijou chain is the one in the first models designed and worn by Coco Chanel, and it has been used ever since, whether in combination with the interlocked CCs or the reissue turn lock. Karl Lagerfeld did not introduc the interlocked CCs logo but he is said to have devised the CC turn lock. I have an early 80s flap with the two CC and indeed, the closure is by snap button which I believe is typical of the age. however, it is true that in some vintage pics it looks like the bags do have a CC turn lock. So I am not sure whether the story that KL invented is true or he merely reintroduced it...

View attachment 4364750

The CC's were copyrighted in 1925, so my guess is also that KL reintroduced something Chanel had already tried or sketched. They were using the CC logo on cosmetics first, so perhaps she tested/used it on bags. Apparently, she took her inspiration for the CC logo from the Chateau de Cremat after a visit there. Images from Google.

 

[BrigitteBag]

Thank you for this information! On Fashionphile I see quite a few of the classic flap re-issue chains but they don't list dates, though they are all authenticated. Anyway, I think they are really pretty and when I tried on the re-issue (which I like) I was thinking how lovely those chains would also look on a classic flap. I also looked them up and found that Grey Reginald shot Beverly posted and was like... oohhh pretty. And then I thought what the heck, because I also thought the CC lock was created by Lagerfeld as well.... I think your bag is beautiful, Beverly!

 

[BrigitteBag]

I don't think that bag can be from the 70's. Karl made the CC lock and that wasn't until the early 80's when he became the creative director @ Chanel. It looks like it's just a hybrid version of the Classic Flap. Others who may know better can correct me if I'm wrong.

The 2nd is from 2008, it was called the "new" chain and not the same as the 2007 Bijoux chain. Which looks like this:

View attachment 4364736

Thanks for the clarification about the chains! The 2007 looks more like the Bijoux chain I'm talking about but thicker than the one I posted. Here's another example of the mystery date re-issue chain double flap I keep seeing on the authenticated pre-loved market.

 

[doni]

The CC's were copyrighted in 1925, so my guess is also that KL reintroduced something Chanel had already tried or sketched. They were using the CC logo on cosmetics first, so perhaps she tested/used it on bags. Apparently, she took her inspiration for the CC logo from the Chateau de Cremat after a visit there. Images from Google.
View attachment 4364875 View attachment 4364876

Yes, of course, what Karl Lagerfeld is said to have introduced is the CC turnlock, not the CC logo! coco Chanel already used the logo in bags.

What I was saying is that I am even not so sure he introduced the turnlock (as is common wisdom) as some pics of bags pre-KL seem to suggest a turnlock...

 

[Beverly]

Yes there are bags pre-KL with the turnlock

Specifically, my black bag (pic above) has the CC turnlock, but it has sharp edges on the turning bit. As far as I know the KL turnlocks are all smooth/rounded.

 

[k5ml3k]

The CC's were copyrighted in 1925, so my guess is also that KL reintroduced something Chanel had already tried or sketched. They were using the CC logo on cosmetics first, so perhaps she tested/used it on bags. Apparently, she took her inspiration for the CC logo from the Chateau de Cremat after a visit there. Images from Google.
View attachment 4364875 View attachment 4364876

Very interesting!! Thanks for the info!

 

[doni]

Yes there are bags pre-KL with the turnlock

Specifically, my black bag (pic above) has the CC turnlock, but it has sharp edges on the turning bit. As far as I know the KL turnlocks are all smooth/rounded.

This is so interesting. You see it all over the place that he invented the CC turnlock and that fact is even used to date bags... But I always saw pics, like the one I posted, where I thought, this completely looks like a turnlock... So your bag is also proof. Such a gorgeous bag it is too.
Of course, the production of bags at Chanel was very small until KL took over, and possibly when he did the turnlock had not been used for a while, so he must have reintroduced it from the archives.

 

[Dinhky]

So did you end up getting the vintage classic flap w reissue chain? Can you share some mod shots? Would love to hear how you like the bag in comparison to newer bags in their quality and feel. Thanks

 

[mspaul]

i love the non-leather-interwind straps so much more, all of these look so good

 

[Ladyintheshoe]

This is mine.. and it was first released in 1977 if I'm not wrong, and then continued into the 80s before it became the reissue as you know it

Hi there! I just bought and received this bag, but as it’s so old, the serial number sticker was no longer attached. I got it authenticated prior to purchasing, but one things still gives me pause: it does not have the “secret zipper compartment.” I read a similar post on another forum, but I’m wondering if it’s highly unusual to have an older vintage double flap Chanel that in fact does not have the zipper compartment?