1ct Tiffany Setting E Ring, Colour or Clarity??

hermesholic

hermesholic

LovesOrangeBoxes
Jan 19, 2014
200
114
#1
Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my .53 E SI1 e ring to 1ct. Which one would u prioritise when looking at a solitaire of this size?

I’ve always thought that colour is more impt than clarity but according to the SA, clarity is more impt as it determines the sparkle. She has recommended to look for colours G and H with clarity of IF.

What do you guys think? Would an F colour with VVS1 or VVS2 be better? I would most likely request to see both these two specs but would like to hear from our knowledgeable tpfers first [emoji38]
 
#2
Getting an IF diamond would be overkill and you'd be paying $$$$$$$ for it . VS1 or VS2 would be very similar in terms of clarity. Colour G & H would be fine but after having an F colour stone you may see some warmth in comparison to your original stone (if you're colour sensitive). I would aim for something like G/H, VS2 for value for money from Tiffany. Good luck!
 
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#3
bibs76 said:
Getting an IF diamond would be overkill and you'd be paying $$$$$$$ for it . VS1 or VS2 would be very similar in terms of clarity. Colour G & H would be fine but after having an F colour stone you may see some warmth in comparison to your original stone (if you're colour sensitive). I would aim for something like G/H, VS2 for value for money from Tiffany. Good luck!
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Thanks for your reply! Yes, I thought IF was not worth the premium too.. I wonder if there would be as high a premium for an E or F colour tho..
 
#5
hermesholic said:
Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my .53 E SI1 e ring to 1ct. Which one would u prioritise when looking at a solitaire of this size?

I’ve always thought that colour is more impt than clarity but according to the SA, clarity is more impt as it determines the sparkle. She has recommended to look for colours G and H with clarity of IF.

What do you guys think? Would an F colour with VVS1 or VVS2 be better? I would most likely request to see both these two specs but would like to hear from our knowledgeable tpfers first [emoji38]
Click to expand...

Cut first obviously! (I know that wasn’t the question haha)

I would definitely not get an IF. It’s overkill! I agree with Bibs76. Go G-H, VS1-VS2 to get the best value for your $$.

I have a G VVS2 and it’s truthfully beautiful! No regrets on colour or clarity and the good cut makes it sparkle like crazy! I would have also been satisfied with a VS1 (which is what my original Tiffany e-ring was).

Please come back and post pics once you get your upgrade! :smile:
 
#6
girlybride said:
Cut first obviously! (I know that wasn’t the question haha)

I would definitely not get an IF. It’s overkill! I agree with Bibs76. Go G-H, VS1-VS2 to get the best value for your $$.

I have a G VVS2 and it’s truthfully beautiful! No regrets on colour or clarity and the good cut makes it sparkle like crazy! I would have also been satisfied with a VS1 (which is what my original Tiffany e-ring was).

Please come back and post pics once you get your upgrade! :smile:
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Oh yes ! I’ve always thot cut is impt too and I was surprised the SA mentioned nothing of it.. How does Tiffany grade the cut of its diamonds? My current one says the cut is “brilliant”.
 
#7
hermesholic said:
Oh yes ! I’ve always thot cut is impt too and I was surprised the SA mentioned nothing of it.. How does Tiffany grade the cut of its diamonds? My current one says the cut is “brilliant”.
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If I can offer ANY advice, it is to do your own research in regards to cut. The T&Co SAs will simply tell you that it is ‘triple excellent’ in respects to cut, symmetry and polish (which is based on their own gradings) and possibly even that this coincides with the GIA gradings. I made a BIG mistake first time around in believing that all T&Co diamonds are cut to the same standard. They most certainly are not!
 
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#8
girlybride said:
If I can offer ANY advice, it is to do your own research in regards to cut. The T&Co SAs will simply tell you that it is ‘triple excellent’ in respects to cut, symmetry and polish (which is based on their own gradings) and possibly even that this coincides with the GIA gradings. I made a BIG mistake first time around in believing that all T&Co diamonds are cut to the same standard. They most certainly are not!
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IMG_1094.JPG

This is wat is reflected on my current cert.. is this good enough proof that it is indeed triple excellent? Instead of relying on the words of the SA.
 
#9
hermesholic said:
View attachment 4293414

This is wat is reflected on my current cert.. is this good enough proof that it is indeed triple excellent? Instead of relying on the words of the SA.
Click to expand...

My certificate shows the same. I don’t believe it’s enough. My first ring had a far less than ideal HCA score and was borderline excellent in the GIA rankings, even though Tiffanys considered it an excellent cut. My new diamond sparkles so much more and has far better cut dimensions.

Cut is sooooo important!
 
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#11
hermesholic said:
Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my .53 E SI1 e ring to 1ct. Which one would u prioritise when looking at a solitaire of this size?

I’ve always thought that colour is more impt than clarity but according to the SA, clarity is more impt as it determines the sparkle. She has recommended to look for colours G and H with clarity of IF.

What do you guys think? Would an F colour with VVS1 or VVS2 be better? I would most likely request to see both these two specs but would like to hear from our knowledgeable tpfers first [emoji38]
Click to expand...

I think it's already been said, but cut quality (good parameters) is the single most defining influencer of sparkle. A diamond is basically a really expensive mirror and the care with which the facets have been cut and aligned is the most important factor in making the stone reflect light back to you.

After that, I'd try on different color grades (get near a window if you can- fancy store sparkle lighting is going to mask color) to see what your tolerance is. It's probably more than you guess. Forget about people trying to scare you about colors...it's a very personal choice and don't let anyone intimidate you.

Clarity would be my last and lowest on the totem pole factor. Until you get down to SI2, you aren't likely to see much. Remember the inclusions are graded at 10X magnification, and Tiffany doesn't sell below VS2 grade anyway. It would be odd indeed for you to see a VS2 inclusion with the naked eye.
 
#12
hermesholic said:
View attachment 4293414

This is wat is reflected on my current cert.. is this good enough proof that it is indeed triple excellent? Instead of relying on the words of the SA.
Click to expand...

You don't know what their standards are for including a stone in XXX. By GIA standards, XXX covers a slightly wide range of diamonds, not all of which are going to perform well, they just happen to make the cut parameters.

The jewelry industry banks on you not really understanding any of this stuff so take just a few minutes out to learn a little bit.

Basically, You want your stones cut parameters to fall in a certain range (the Pricescope HCA tool operates on that basis).

I'm trying to recall off the top of my head but Ideal parameters run something like

table: 54-58
crown angle: 34-35
pavilion angle; 40.6-40.9 (maybe 41)
depth: 60-62-ish
 
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#13
mewt said:
Fill out the 4 numbers according to this tool:
https://www.pricescope.com/tools/hca/
It will give you an estimate of how good your diamond performs. I'd try and get those numbers for any significant diamond you're considering, will help in your decision making. I would put cut over color, and color over clarity.
Click to expand...

bunnycat said:
I think it's already been said, but cut quality (good parameters) is the single most defining influencer of sparkle. A diamond is basically a really expensive mirror and the care with which the facets have been cut and aligned is the most important factor in making the stone reflect light back to you.

After that, I'd try on different color grades (get near a window if you can- fancy store sparkle lighting is going to mask color) to see what your tolerance is. It's probably more than you guess. Forget about people trying to scare you about colors...it's a very personal choice and don't let anyone intimidate you.

Clarity would be my last and lowest on the totem pole factor. Until you get down to SI2, you aren't likely to see much. Remember the inclusions are graded at 10X magnification, and Tiffany doesn't sell below VS2 grade anyway. It would be odd indeed for you to see a VS2 inclusion with the naked eye.
Click to expand...

bunnycat said:
You don't know what their standards are for including a stone in XXX. By GIA standards, XXX covers a slightly wide range of diamonds, not all of which are going to perform well, they just happen to make the cut parameters.

The jewelry industry banks on you not really understanding any of this stuff so take just a few minutes out to learn a little bit.

Basically, You want your stones cut parameters to fall in a certain range (the Pricescope HCA tool operates on that basis).

I'm trying to recall off the top of my head but Ideal parameters run something like

table: 54-58
crown angle: 34-35
pavilion angle; 40.6-40.9 (maybe 41)
depth: 60-62-ish
Click to expand...

Thanks all for sharing your views! I tried the HCA tool using the specs from my old Tiffany ring and got a rating of 1.7! Despite it being a SI1 diamond. It’s confusing why Tiffany claims they dun sell anything below VS2 but my cert clearly states my current one is SI1!
 
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#14
hermesholic said:
Thanks all for sharing your views! I tried the HCA tool using the specs from my old Tiffany ring and got a rating of 1.7! Despite it being a SI1 diamond. It’s confusing why Tiffany claims they dun sell anything below VS2 but my cert clearly states my current one is SI1!
Click to expand...

They started selling SI1 stones a while ago, but I think it's only solitaires with certificates, if I recall correctly. The other jewelry with diamonds and no certificates would be a minimum of VS2. Also, SI1 is just the clarity of the stone. It doesn't have anything to do with the cut which is what the HCA tool measures. Good luck in your search!
 
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