Ikat is a type of fabric.
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Ikat
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Ikat weaving from the Island of
Sumba,
Indonesia
Detail of a classic Gujarati
patola from the early 19th century.
LACMA textile collections.
Ikat
abr, silk and cotton, mid-19th century,
Uzbekistan.
Smithsonian collections.
Ikat, or
Ikkat, is a style of
weaving that uses a
resist dyeing process similar to
tie-dye on either the
warp or
weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design. A
Double Ikat is when both the warp
and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving.
Ikat means "to tie" or "to bind" in the
Malay language and has the same root as the words
dekat ("close"),
lekat ("to stick"),
pikat ("to catch") etc. The word
Katt has the same meaning in all of the
south Indian languages but there may be no relation. Through common usage, the word has come to describe both the process and the cloth itself. Ikats have been woven in cultures all over the world. In
Central and
South America, Ikat is still common in
Argentina,
Bolivia,
Ecuador,
Guatemala and
Mexico. In the 19th century, the
Silk Road desert oases of
Bukhara and
Samarkand (in what is now
Uzbekistan in
Central Asia) were famous for their fine silk
Uzbek Ikat.
India,
Japan and several
South-East Asian countries have cultures with long histories of Ikat production. Double Ikats can still be found in
India, Guatemala,
Japan and the
Indonesian islands of
Bali and
Kalimantan.
Like any craft or art form, ikats vary widely from country to country and region to region. Designs may have symbolic of ritual meaning or have been developed for export trade. Ikats are often symbols of status, wealth, power and prestige. Perhaps because of the difficulty and time required to make ikats, some cultures believe the cloth is imbued with magical powers.