Reference: Hermes(groupie)'s Leather Book

[hermesgroupie]

***PLEASE NOTE***We would like to keep this thread free from chit chat. Please use this thread Discuss Hermesgroupie's Leather Book to discuss this thread or ask questions. If you have any pictures or additional information, feel free post it here. Thank you Hermesgroupie for taking your time in gathering this information for the members.


Someone earlier had requested information on leathers. Please use the following in conjunction with the Hermes knowledge base.

BOX CALF
The quintessential Hermes leather. A veau, or calf leather, this leather has been around since Hermes has been making handbags. It is a smooth leather with a glossy finish that is susceptible to scratches. However, the scratches eventually blend into one glossy mirror-like patina, that box afficionados crave. Care must be taken with this leather when raining, if the raindrops are not wiped off, the leather will blister. Under the right care, box calf can last for generations.

[hermesgroupie]

CHAMONIX
The matte version of boxcalf. This leather handles scratches better than boxcalf, but is worse in the rain, with a greater tendency to blister. The finish applied to this leather gives it an almost plastic appearance. The picture below appears to have a gloss, do not be mislead, it is matte.

[hermesgroupie]

BARENIA
The original saddle leather. This leather is double tanned in chrome and vegetable dyes and then soaked in a mix of nine different oils over a 5 to 6 week process. The process causes the leather fibers to soak up all the oils. This leaves the leather with an interesting characteristic. When scratched, the scratches can be rubbed off with a few swipes of your finger, because Barenia can absorb the oils. Also, when rained upon, the water droplets will eventually evaporate. There is no aniline finish, therefore, this leather will develop a patina. Here is the link to the tannery: Tanneries Haas

[hermesgroupie]

PEAU PORC
Another of Hermes's classic leathers, but retired during the last 10 years. A long lasting durable leather that can last generations if maintained. It is lightweight. This leather is available matte or lisse and can be dyed. Horrible in rain, this leather will blister.

[hermesgroupie]

TOGO
Baby calf leather, a veau. To some it is heavy. Others find the aroma heavenly. It is a soft leather, but not as much as clemence. To many, one of the hallmarks of togo is veining. However, togo can be veined or unveined. It is a finer grain than clemence, and slightly more pronounced. It is scratchproof and can be refurbished to almost as good as new.

[hermesgroupie]

CLEMENCE
Official name is veau taurillon clemence. It is baby bull and heavy. Perhaps the leather with most slouch to it. It is a broader, flatter grain. The grain has a tendency to come to the surface and this is evidenced by cracking of the resin along the edges of the bag. Around since the 1980's, it is becoming a classic. Another of the Hermes leathers that can be refurbished to almost as good as new.

[hermesgroupie]

^^^^^^If you don't wipe the bag down after it gets wet, the blisters can become permanent. You musn't allow the fibers to become saturated with water, otherwise they will plump up.

[hermesgroupie]

EPSOM
This is an embossed leather, in other words the pattern is imprinted into the leather and what you see is not its natural grain. The process of embossing compresses the leather and gives the leather some rigidity. This is a phenomenon common to all the embossed leathers and to the stretched ones as well. Epsom appears to be laminated as it is easy to clean with a damp cloth, which is one of the advantages to this leather. In addition, it is lightweight.

[hermesgroupie]

COURCHEVEL
Now only seen in small accessories, this leather is very similar to epson in appearance. Another embossed leather, it has the same properties as epson. It is lightweight and easy to clean. The slight difference is that courchevel is shinier and darker at the top of the grain. I believe it may be dyed in a 2 dye process and then treated with a laminate.

[hermesgroupie]

AGNEAU
Lambskin. Very soft with a gentle hand. It is prone to scratches but ages well with a slight patina and slight greying around the edges. It is usually found in the lining of Hermes and handbags and small accessories, such as the Carmen keyring.

[hermesgroupie]

GULLIVER/SWIFT
I am clumping these two leathers together, because they are one and the same. Gulliver was retired around 7 years ago and brought back within the last year. This time it was renamed Swift. Does anyone see the connection between the two leathers? Hint: Who wrote Gulliver's Travels. Anyway, it is a soft leather with a gentle hand and a fine grain. One of its best qualities is that it is great at absorbing the dyes and the brighter colors come to life in this leather. The fine grain seems to reflect light in such a way that the colors are almost iridescent. While it can scratch more easily than clemence and togo the scratches can be rubbed off with your finger. Deeper scratches can be refurbished with a condition at Hermes and brought back to almost new. I find this a resilient leather.

[Roxanna]

HG, I was browsing LS site the other day and came across this wallet. It states material as Seal Leather-Phoque.I have never heard about this leather before.

Did you see that leather or hear about it?
Here is the link
LUXURY-ALLIANCE.CH

[hermesgroupie]

Originally Posted by Roxanna

HG, I was browsing LS site the other day and came across this wallet. It states material as Seal Leather-Phoque.I have never heard about this leather before. Did you see that leather or hear about it? Here is the link LUXURY-ALLIANCE.CH

You don't hear about it because it is my understanding they don't carry it anymore. Endangered Species Act, I assume. This is another leather I've seen on vintage pieces.

[hermesgroupie]

OSTRICH
Species Struthio Camellus, farmed in South Africa. Can come matte. This is a dynamic leather that will darken from contact with your hands and also lighten with exposure to light. It is effective in rain as the surface can be wiped down with a cloth with no marks or residue. It ages well and will develop a patina over time. If maintained properly it can last decades. It should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling overseas.

[hermesgroupie]

CROCODYLUS POROSUS
This leather is designated by a ^. Farmed in Australia. Considered by many to be the premier Hermes leather and noted for its fine, symmetrical scale pattern. It does not come glazed, rather the shine comes from repeated buffing of the skin with a stone until it reaches a sheen. Because it is not treated, it does not do well in rain. While the crocodile skins can be glazed, it is not recommended that it be done more than twice. The reason being that the uneven texture of the skin will leave the glaze uneven on its surface, which may eventually peel and flake with time. Being an exotic, it should come with a CITES certificate that should be carried while traveling.