Care of your Hayden Harnett

[ami kio]

Originally Posted by Stormy Heart

Eucalyptus (tie-dye) are not suffering mold. Mold looks like what overgrows in outdated Yogurt jars and smelly very musty. Regular Lexol is good. You do not have to rub hard; buff gently. Being that these are boots, we'd want to consider what weather conditions you'll be wearing them in. When I break out my Euc Maddies, I might use something weatherproof and accept a little darkening. Euc is not a naked leather, so can be polished with Meltonian Creams. Ami, I know it's been a weird experience for some to get these 2~tone 'oops' leathers, but think of this way: Some of the highest quality leathers are hand rubbed in 2 or three color dyes to achieve an extra dimensional effect and are amazingly gorgeous. Natural eucalyptus is a silvery grey / pale soft green color. Yours are TRUE EUCALYPTUS ! WE don't know for certain how much wear will reveal more green; only time will tell. Just love your very unique sexy Z boots.

Oh, yeah, I know that it's not mold per se -- I just recall people describing it as mold previously. I don't mind darkening, but I don't really care for the green blotches.

But I shall moisturize them a bit with Lexol & spray them with AppleGarde and report back.

Thanks!

[Stormy Heart]

Originally Posted by ami kio

Oh, yeah, I know that it's not mold per se -- I just recall people describing it as mold previously. I don't mind darkening, but I don't really care for the green blotches. But I shall moisturize them a bit with Lexol & spray them with AppleGarde and report back. Thanks!

I am sorry to see rumor repeated here.

You can certainly use colored polish over the greenish areas, as described previously in this thread.

[Stormy Heart]

Originally Posted by Sybaryte

Copying from another thread: What exactly is it that causes leather to crack? I think we've touched on this before but never in depth. Is it storage, handling, weather? I don't baby my bags and have purchased quite a few that were previously used yet I've never had this problem....and I never want to have this problem. It always seems to be about the strap or handle; is that because those are more narrow, less mass, than the body of the bag...therefore more susceptible or is another factor in play? Thanks in advance.

Once leather begins to crack, there is no going back.
It will eventually tear.
The causes can be faulty tanning/ finishing, poor storage conditions, mold, exposure to heat, and stress ~ All break down the fibers wherein the strength lies.
Speaking specifically about straps and handles, there are two things to look at. One is the liquid plastic applied to the edges, which hardens and cracks. This is why I prefer raw edges or properly stitched (double or more thickness) leather in that position.
The other is an engineering issue: PSI. Think of the all the weight in your bag being supported by those couple of square inches of leather. That's a lot of pounds per square inch to pull the fibers; high STRESS. The problem is not so serious with double straps.
BTW, 'rolled' straps are pure leather rolled and seamed, not a plastic tube stuck inside a leather sheath. Because these have up to six inches of width before rolling, they are incredibly strong and should never crack. Leather is tested for weight bearing capacity and this is a factor that should be considered in design and construction.

Maintaining the integrity of the leather fibers is paramount to prevention of cracks and imperceptible damage. Supple leather is strong.

[Stormy Heart]

Originally Posted by Sybaryte

Watched the video...hides looked very stiff even after all the various treatments. How does it change from stiff to soft? Who does the dyeing?

The video shows modern veg tanning, which is only natural color. The leather is not really stiff except in the heaviest thicknesses. Even then it shapes and carves easily. The machine slices it to exact custom thickness; the skivved flesh side is suede, and the top can be very lightweight. The strength is in the fibers of the flesh, so what you saw there is heavy saddle and tack leather. Regular use softens it, as the fibers relax and break up a little. Washed, especially enzyme washed leather, gets a jump on the fiber softening and water opens the fibers, ( like washing your hair sorta.) Softening also takes place in tumble drums, again, breaking up long fibers. This is why it is OK to throw a stiff NEW bag WITHOUT artificial edging, in a clothes dryer on air for a few minutes.
While the leather is wet and fiber shafts open, it can accept color baths and also special waxes and oils (which is why Lexol can be used on / permeate wet leather).
For veg tanned leather, a vegetable color dye is most acceptable. The color looks softer and less vivid than anilines, but more natural.

Aniline leathers are the most colorful and chemically enhanced. There are multiple stages of this process, with the last two being color and finish. Naked skips finish.
Cheap leather can have color and finish together as one coat, like paint.

The dying itself can be done at the same factory where the tanning takes place, or prepared hides can be sent to a specialty shop where color and embossing are done. Scale of operation and sources vary.

[Stormy Heart]

Originally Posted by pursegal

Hello, I have looked high and low for a posting of how someone cleaned their Amber Avion tote - I had said it collects dirt easily and someone posted how to clean it... can someone help me out? My handles are looking bad, and I am afraid its too late to get the dirt off... I have never had this happen w/ a b bag before... darn it... I'm a bit worried now. I love my amber but am afraid for the first time I have screwed up taking care of a bag.... :-( Thanks you so much, Renee

The peachy amber should clean up nicely with Lexol, followed by multiple coats of Wilson's or Kiwi spray and don't use hand cream.

[cellista]

Dear Stormy,

I have seen mentioned in this thread and elsewhere on the forum that the Gaza Satchel can be machine washed. I also saw your photos of your cloud one after machine washing.

I have the khaki canvas twill with saddle trim satchel. Can you describe for me how to wash this in the machine?

What soap do I use?

What temperature water?

How long of a cycle?

Does the leather need to be conditioned after washing?

Are there any other special instructions?

Also, can the all-leather Gaza Satchels be machine washed?

Thank you in advance!

[ami kio]

Originally Posted by Stormy Heart

I am sorry to see rumor repeated here.

Nonono, sorry I wasn't being clear: the term "mold" has previously been used as a descriptive term (i.e. it looks like a large green mold spot even though it's not fuzzy like real mold) as opposed to a strictly factual term. I think that everyone understands that it's a dye variation, not actual mold.

[Sybaryte]

Originally Posted by Stormy Heart

Speaking specifically about straps and handles, there are two things to look at. One is the liquid plastic applied to the edges, which hardens and cracks. This is why I prefer raw edges or properly stitched (double or more thickness) leather in that position.

Thanks for the great info, Stormy! Good to know that cracking can't be fixed. And now I've learned another reason to dislike handles that have a lot of that liquid plastic on their edges....not only does it look bad but potential future grief!

[Sybaryte]

Originally Posted by Stormy Heart

The strength is in the fibers of the flesh, so what you saw there is heavy saddle and tack leather.

Oops...I forgot that I saw that on their website as being a key part of their business. In any event, it looks like a LOT of work to do it right.

Thanks again!

[pgtea]

just wanted to contribute my experience with my brandy bag (zephyr hobo) and AG spray!

Apple Garde spray spot-test on bottom of brandy bag: BAD...so far! dark spot! ewwh no! i'll see if it goes away in a few more hrs....

(well, it was great all-over on my anthracite havana months ago and saved her from someone spilling beer on her, ugh)

kiwi as recommended in this thread: EXCELLENT!


luckily i spot tested on the bottom of the bag -- i should've done it on the little strap of leather holding the medallion! but the zephyr sits flat on its round bottom panel and thus, doesn't tend to slump or tip over and reveal its underside like a drunken trollop (hee hee) like the havana which has a less structured bottom. so if the spot decides to make its permanent home on the bottom of my zephyr then it's not so bad! sucks, but i'm glad the structure hides anything that might remain tomorrow and i'm just enamored with my new bag!

kiwi spray was fine-- misted all over the bag and no change in the color or condition of leather! AG works so well for my other brands and actually for my anthracite bag. it's been 45 min (should give it more time) but the spot is still there from the AG! plus, to me, the smell of kiwi spray isn't as overpowering as AG

[Stormy Heart]

Thanks for your post PGTea.
Nothing penetrates anthracite so it doesn't matter what you use anyhow.
AG sure seems to not get along well with HH

"the zephyr sits flat on its round bottom panel and thus, doesn't tend to slump or tip over and reveal its underside like a drunken trollop (hee hee) like the havana"

Now, about a widely advertised product called TLC ~ want to remind hot ones that it's a 2 in 1 product (cleanser /conditioner). We have seen cases where these type products have permanently set stains,
SOOOOooooooo if you want to use shortcuts, and have NO stains or marks, just general dirt that won't wash off with plain soap and damp cloths, go ahead. Be aware this is a LANOLIN product (sheep sebum) so is best for (most compatible with) lamb and sheepskin bags, and can go rancid in heat...(sour bags, anyone ?)
Used bags deserve a proper 2 step cleansing and conditioning, after any spots or stains are removed. I like the process of going over every mm; by the time I am finished, we've bonded and it really has restored it's original or greater value.

* just spent mega bucks on a complete line of nubuck products that I will be testing on suedes and naked leathers, to see if they are an improvement or simpler than my current techniques. There are specific issues I will be addressing beyond general care: ink removal and UV protection...

If someone will scan the new care card that comes with your Bags straight from HH, I'd appreciate if you'd post it here for us. It's better than the old recommendations, and helpful for new hot ones who may perhaps be getting their first HH on the secondary market,Thanks.

Celli, how's your malinka ?

(((Syb&her ?????s)))

[cellista]

Originally Posted by Stormy Heart

Celli, how's your malinka ?

Stormy,

Couldn't really get her as clean as I wanted, and I did get some fading, but nevertheless, I am using her, even as we speak. She is not pristine but that just adds character, and I worry less when I have to plop her down on the floor.

What about the Gaza machine washing? Can you help me out on that one? Did I miss your post/answer? I know I have read this can be done--I'm just not sure how....

Thank you again for all your assistance!

[Stormy Heart]

Originally Posted by cellista

Stormy, What about the Gaza machine washing? Can you help me out on that one? Did I miss your post/answer? I know I have read this can be done--I'm just not sure how.... Thank you again for all your assistance!

Allow plenty of time and assemble a stack of dry towels. Do this on a day when you can watch the machine. Gaza needs close attention.

* Use 1/4 Cup Murphy's Wood Oil Soap in the wash, rub a little directly on the dirtiest area of the cloth and trim first (Lexol Cleanser on the leather if it's worse than dirt) and let that rest while you prepare the machine.
* Use a Cold, Delicate Cycle. Add small towels or washcloths to the basin to create friction and balance the load. Close up all zippers and snaps and gently place Gaza in full tub.Swish it by hand until it is soaked, then let the machine take over.
* Do NOT use laundry detergent or additives.
* Thoroughly dissolve 2 Tablespoons of hair conditioner in a quart of water to add to the first rinse. After the first rinse, take the bag out and smooth it, then * rinse a second time.
* Remove bag immediately from machine and place Gaza between two big clean fluffy white towels; softly blot dry and smooth the leather flaps and straps as if you're ironing them between your hands.
* Stuff the bag with folded Bath towels,and Block the shape, so there are no puckers.
* Set it in an airy spot on a clean towel AWAY from heat, direct sun, and open windows if blowing dust is in the air. Heat over-dries and sun darkens the leather,
* After a couple hours, you can exchange the inner towels for fresh ones, and flip the satchel over. After another while, remove the towels, close everything but the top zipper and wait for the lining to dry. This can be overnight.
* The bag will feel stiff. If you want to knock the stiffness out, tumble dry on AIR setting with tennis balls for a few minutes.
* Finally, lightly condition the leather trim and spray the whole bag with a fine mist of Wilson's or Kiwi.
*Stuff with white tissue. Add dry packets (& dried lavender buds in a mesh bag, if you wish)
** Dust the bag off and cover Gaza between uses, Spot clean and reapply the protectant every 3-4 months as needed.

[Stormy Heart]

**** NICO Variation ****

Follow as directed above, but dry with tissue folded inside the pockets, between the magnets, so the pocket tops and faces stay smooth. The extreme depth of the bag requires an open bag to dry, which can be tricky. After drying flat on both sides, prop the bag up and open, taking care to keep zip flaps smooth. Or hang it upside down, and open. The lining is stitched in, but you can turn the whole bag inside out for a little bit, Just hand-iron after each turn and step. Luggage does not lose any color, but I have not washed any other Mercer colors this way, which could fade a little.
After care is identical to Gaza; condition, spray, lightly tissue-stuff.

[Stormy Heart]

Originally Posted by cellista

Dear Stormy, Also, can the all-leather Gaza Satchels be machine washed? Thank you in advance!

I wouldn't do that to Shrunken Lamb. No.
It cleans up beautifully with regular surface cleansers and the distressed nature hides most every sign of normal wear, anyhow.