“WE took a very direct approach to the body this season,” creative director Tomas Maier said at the Bottega Veneta show this morning. “The look is covered up and the materials are virtually impenetrable, yet the effect is powerfully physical.”
Declared by Vogue’s Fran Burns “Maier’s best collection since he arrived” there in June 2001, it had all the Bottega quality and made up a full wardrobe of wearable, beautifully cut pieces. Always elegant and inventive, this house occasionally lets creativity play more of a part than practicality when it comes to ready-to-wear - but today it was all about making women look gorgeously refined.
Grey or navy cashmere shift dresses had intermittent slashes of leather detailing at the waist, while flat riding boots and beautifully tailored, vertically seamed princess coats and cap-sleeved, Forties-style day dresses were smart and looked sumptuous to wear.
Glittering embellishment and feathery tulle shoulder details added glossy femininity to the look – Bottega Veneta always adds just enough but not too much sparkle – while baggy nylon socks prevented fitted suits that were accessorised with chain-handled handbags from looking too old-school.
Bright orange, red and black, or black and purple devore dresses added a modern energy, while dresses with velvet uppers and raw leaves of indigo and black silk chiffon making up the skirts had a much younger feel – another black velvet body-con dress had a peplum of raw silk leaves around the middle.
It was vintage luxury balanced with modern allure and as always Maier raised a big cheer. vogue.co.uk