[Megs]

Last month we had the unique pleasure to sit down, meet, and interview the two designers behind Lambertson Truex, namely Richard Lambertson and John Truex. The interview felt more like a fun talk with long-lost friends than a meeting over their successful business, history, design and future outlook. Richard and John are as lovable as they come. Very approachable, funny, and not the slightest stint of self-importance that one would almost expect from designers of their caliber. After chatting it up, Richard and John walked off to a meeting and we left the showroom with a newly earned respect and adoration for Lambertson Truex, one of the great American design houses of this time.

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PB: How did you get started in fashion? Fashion background?

Richard Lambertson: My first job was a display job for Saks, later visual merchandising for Bergdorf, moved from there into the fashion office, then to Geoffrey Bean, went to work for Barney's New York, then as design directory for Gucci, back to Geoffrey Bean again, Calvin Klein, back to Bergdorf Goodman as creative director, advertising, publicity, fashion office and then started this. That's quick!

John Truex: Mine is a little simpler… I never thought I would ever be in fashion, I always loved the business of advertising. I made a book bag in college out of a piece of leather that was a birthday gift. That got me into leathers, 3-dimensional creation of something. I moved to NYC, still thinking I'd go into advertising, it didn't work out. I answered a Help Wanted ad for an office assistant position for a high-end accessory company, became the assistant office manager… and the company was called Carlos Falchi. I moved up to the retail division, then ready-to-wear and then moved my way into the actual design of accessories about 6 years after that. Shy of 10 years of being there, I had a brief freelance career at Ralph Lauren and then joined CK as creative director for handbags. A year and a half later, Richard and I decided to team up. We asked each other What's Next? So we gave it a shot.

PB: Why are you emphasizing on accessories?

John: We have many years of experience in accessories from buying leathers, to lasting shoes to color coordination and even merchandising of a collection. Starting the [LT] collection, we didn't want to just do a bag. We really wanted to open a line, an accessory house. When we first presented the collection it was women's handbags from fabric and leather, to all leather, to alligator, to lizard. There was a belt and wallet to accessorize with it, it was even a men's tote, placed in the women's line but a bag that we could carry. We presented the collection at the studio of our friends and it was really a launch of an important American accessory House, which really did not exist.

Richard: Bergdorf's was our first account that bought our collection. At the time they maybe had bought Tod's, they had Fendi, Prada, Barry Kieselstein, a little Donna Karan, but that was about it. We were really one of the first American Houses, other than Judith Leiber, that they bought as a whole collection.

John: We designed the whole collection knowing the customer, knowing who would walk down 5th Ave, who lived on Park Avenue, who visited from SLC for a weekend. We completely designed into that.

Richard: We entered the market in '98 when it was the era of logos. GGs, Pradas, Jacquard-Mania, Dior, Vuitton ads. And then we had the simple bags with tiny hardware on them. The complete opposite.

John: We truly think that our customer is a leader, she doesn't follow trends. She buys for herself, not for the girl sitting next to her, she is not there to impress. She is there to feel great about herself. With logos all over the place, women would go uggghhh. We pulled out the sketchbook and started sketching.

Richard: A lot of people take out bags from our early collections and we get compliments from them, saying they still use it and love it. I hate the word "classic" or "timeless" but they kind of are.

John: Timeless fashion is the perfect way to describe it. If you spend $15,000 on a bag, it's precious. Nothing is more insulting than designing something for $30,000 and then she wears it twice! Maybe you are satisfied that you wore it twice and it was $15,000 each, you feel good about yourself but then what?

PB: Where do you draw your inspiration?

Richard: The leathers and materials we use segway into where we get inspiration. It is most important to find the right leather to work with. We find exactly what we are looking for on a trip to Italy and it may inspire a whole collection. Other times, we don't find it but we find something else and it changes the construction. We work organically.

John: There are times where you sit on a train and daydream, at a speed going past and something catches your eye, that is an inspiration. These epiphanies, moments. Is it a Déjà vu? When it comes to designing bags, you are there, sketching, erasing, it moves and it starts happening. Leathers are very important though. You need the right medium, the texture or drape. Because it is so three-dimensional, functional, industrial – you have to use with the leather, the weight of it.

Richard: Vintage pieces are inspirational. Not to copy it, but you buy an old vintage bag and you use the handle. Or you like the clasp, the mechanisms of it. You use old designs and make them modern.

John: Our first collection was inspired by the twists and turns that the bags from the 1950s had. We were one of the first to really bring the interior-exterior-works-as-one. You can go to today's major fashion brands today, open their bags and they are lined in canvas with one zip pocket. Hello?! And they are $2600. Don't judge a book by its cover. Open it up, take the tissue out, feel how light it is. Look at the detail. Open our alligator bags, the pockets are trimmed in alligator. Collars are trimmed in gator. The backs of the straps are in alligator. Look at what you are looking at, dive into it!

[Megs]

PB: People are often frustrated looking at the inside of a trendy bag and find canvas…

John: We do canvas lining, especially when we want to do something light. But sometimes, canvas even makes it heavier. That is why we discovered the world of lamb suede, because it is light and easy. When we use canvas, the pockets are still trimmed in leather, it plays with what's in the bag. Because cell phones have evolved, people carry their Blackberries and smart devices, we decided to make our pockets flat. So they are a little more universal, more generic and work in this high technology world.

PB: How would you sum up your brand?

John: Easy. Relaxed. Quiet. Robust. Light. When I look around [in the showroom] I see texture, detail. Thought-out. Finally, I'd say respectful.

PB: Do you have a favorite material you work with?

John: We love, LOVE leopard print. We designed with leopard print since 1998 in our first collection. Alligator as well. We love working with leathers that are a natural tannage, ones that are not covered with paint, chrome. Deep, saturated colors, even our pebble grains and our Nappas have saturated colors. We don't like painted, nothing that is fake and vinyl.

Richard: I don't really enjoy working with fabric, either. Something that is soft and drapey.

PB: Your names are interesting and they flow together perfectly. How did you decide your last names were going to make a brand name?

Richard: The hardest part is naming anything. I never particularly liked my name, but I thought John's name was very cool

John: …I obviously didn't like my name… guess two bads make one…

Richard: John has a great name but nobody can pronounce it.

John: It is the easiest name to pronounce. I think that people just want to have conflict and struggle in life. If you look at Lam-Bert-Son Tru-Ex – it's like the alphabet, very simple.

Richard: People tend to think we are European.

John: Born and bread Americans! Truex is French/Danish but it has been generations since my family landed on Manhattan Island.

Richard: When we first started the company, the DMM of Bergdorf, Suzan Cohen -- very funny woman from Boca – asked "What's it gonna be called?" and I said that we had a couple of things but that we thought of Lambertson Truex. "Perfect, perfect! It sounds vaguely European and my people will think it sounds very classy."

John: We played around with a lot of logos and variations, just Lambertson – no – just Truex – no – Truex Lambertson didn't work. We were playing around, sketching the logo and the L and T just fit like a piece of the puzzle. They lock together, seemed natural.

PB: The biggest challenge breaking into the industry?

Richard: When we launched, that was the year that logos exploded. Dior did sweaty campaigns with greasy girls, wearing logos… Again, we are perceived as a huge brand because we sit next to Gucci and Prada and we started the company with just our money and no backing. We still do not do any advertising. The perception of the store and the people is the hardest part, getting our name out there.

John: Actually starting was not that difficult. Obviously, as with any business, you have to incorporate this, ship that. But breaking… I think we started at the right time. There were not a lot of brands out there.

Richard: To do it now would be extremely difficult.

John: We had a lot of friends that really supported us in the retail world, the editorial world. People embraced the support we received worldwide, we were very fortunate because we had a lot of people who wanted us to succeed. We are very thankful for starting when we did and having such support. And frankly, there were not many accessories out of America. It was all very European-driven. Through our retail experience, we entered at the right price point. You cannot enter the market in 1998 with a $2,000 handbag. We knew that, at that time, $795, $895, $995 was the sweet spot. We built the collection, knowing that is where we had to be. Chanel was $1,200, we had to go in with a beautiful brand that could sit next to Chanel, be different and priced at $995. We did not want to give the retailer a reason to tell us "We don't want to buy this." A to Z was covered, price points, materials, leathers, everything. They couldn't say no!

Richard: The first order I hand-delivered to Bergdorf. Security went crazy because they knew me as the executive vice president of the company. When I showed up in my jeans, carrying this big box, the security guy would yell "Mr. Lambertson, get someone here to help him!" and I thought, "No, no, I am here to deliver…" It was really funny. John would be waiting around outside in the Volvo, double-parked.

PB: Who's the typical customer?

John: That is constantly changing. With every collection we ask ourselves that question – who do we design for? I think today, she's a three-generation woman, which has always been the core of our brand. She is a woman that is getting out of college, she wants a smart-looking bag, she wants to feel chic, she wants to feel recognizable, but not something that is too much. It's her mother, who can afford higher luxury products, and then it's even perhaps her grandmother. Someone who is lunching, wants a little chic, a little alligator clutch. Her daughter asks her to borrow it, she hands it down. It becomes a circle of exchange.

Richard: We have Erin Lauder as a customer, we have Evelyn Lauder as a customer. Estee Lauder was a customer. You see people out in the country with the horse groups carrying our bags. It goes everywhere, it bridges a lot.

John: It is hard to design into that, but we know that she is out there. That is why our collection is not about THE bag, or THE silhouette, or THE color. We have a lot of women who live all around the world, they travel, and our bags have to address all these various needs and desires. I truly believe that our woman is an independent woman. She doesn't need a logo to express her well. She doesn't need a logo to express her thoughts inside. She needs to be comfortable.

Richard: We do have a lot of celebrities that shop with us actually.

PB: Any in particular that you are fond of?

John: Mary J. Blige, love her! She carries our clutches and loves them. Debra Messing is a big fan and Julianne Moore as well. We don't go out seeking these celebrities, we were never comfortable with that.

Richard: J.Lo shops here…

John: More recently, Diane Lane, Reese Witherspoon, Faith Hill.

Richard: Reese actually asked us to design a bag for her! She asked for a smaller version of the bag we carry, that is all she carries at night.

John: Every one of these women and girls are very different. Again, you don't chase it! These are celebrities that have gone out and purchased the bags, or their stylist has come. You can look and see this yellow Dior Babe on Mary Kate and many others, they must send them out to many! We don't design a bag, multiply it and send it to every publicity house out there to reach your celebs. They are our clients, we love when they call us and say “oh I saw this clutch on so-and-so”. Then we build relationships, they come up here [to the showroom].

[Megs]

PB: That ties into what you mentioned about the organic growth...

John: It has to happen naturally or else it's not going to work. I really feel that in business, you have to fold in the ingredients and then mix it, give it time for development and flavor. It is truly the analogy of baking a cake but I do think that you cannot force it, you have to go one-day-at-a-time. Like our stores, they did go 1-2-3 but it just happened. We did not plan for it to happen in 9 months - 3 stores. We found the perfect spot, gotta sign it, gotta move on it, gotta do it.

PB: Your favorite bag?

John: I do switch my bags – ask Richard – pretty much to go with my outfit. I am probably the only guy in the world doing that!

Richard: He matches his wallet to his belt.

John: It is a sickness, but I love doing that.

Richard: He changes his wallet when he goes out at night.

John: I do, I have a small silver wallet for evening events.

Richard: Then there's dinner bags with dinner wallets.

John: It totally works!

PB: That croc leather is so soft…

John: Isn't it? It's a garment tannage. Our alligator comes in a shine, a high gloss, which is a little bit more of a rigid finish, then we do mattes, which is super soft, but matte. Not everyone understands matte, it gets shiny as you carry it though, so we created this semi-glaze. You can turn the bag inside-out without cracking the finish! It is also used for making jackets – if it can be used for jackets, let's make a handbag out of it.


PB: What was your most memorable moment as a designer?

John: I think it's winning the American Fashion Award.

Richard: That was a shock!

John: It was in the year 2000 and especially memorable, because, obviously, you start a business and you are proud of what you do. Then to see other people to cast the vote to say they are proud of what you do as well and being able to attend with our staff to celebrate that. It was incredible moment for me. It was in the Lincoln Center at the time, done in a different form. It had a feel like it was the Academy Awards, with glass podium, P. Diddy and his mother were seated behind us. Very exciting! Having our name announced left me speechless, I didn't say a word. I was just smiling the whole time.

Richard: I usually cry at AT&T commercials, it was really hard to choke out of.

John: Every time going to a store, having a PA, meeting clients or having a journalist show interest in speaking with you, those are important moments for us. Or having a woman walk up to us, asking about a bag and being able to express those words is just as equally important to us.

Richard: My other favorite moment – and I had this moment when I worked for Gucci – was the Fall of our first season in business. I was in the D&D Building for interior design, I got in the elevator and I turned around and there were two women. One had a Birkin and the other woman had a Lambertson Truex bag. It was the first bag I saw carrying by a real person, not somebody I knew. My heart pounded, I thought “That's cool!”.

John: (whispering) "That is my creation!"

Richard: It is still exciting, even today when I go into a store or look out of my car and I will say "John, look at that woman”.

John: You'd ask her about the bag and she'd say "I love this bag!" and you'd say "Well I designed it!”. It is not for our own ego, that is the last thing that motivates us. But when you see her reaction and the "Oh my gosh, I can't believe you stopped me and said something”. It is the reaction you get from making someone else happy.

Richard: Or when they say to me: "I heard you were French"...

PB: In 2007, Samsonite acquired a controlling stake in your company, what has that meant for you guys?

John: In today's world, things are much different than they were in 1998. We actually had our anniversary two days ago! We launched our first collection April 1st, 1998. 10 years ago, there were 10 accessory designers on the floor at Bergdorf Goodman. Now there are 80. Partnering with Samsonite meant freeing up the constant time we'd spend protecting us. You have to go out there and promote, but we spent more time protecting. Having a partner like Samsonite is just more arms to go around you. It does cost millions of dollars to open up a store, and the way we wanted to do it? There was an expectation of Lambertson Truex, when we opened the first store, of how it had to be done. We could not deliver anything less than anyone's expectation and those were really high. When people talk about luxury brands, it's Chanel, Hermes, Lambertson Truex and Bottega Veneta. So you look at those stores, and they are so fine-tuned. We had to do the same thing. Samsonite partnered with us and allowed us to open up a store that we were very proud to put out there.

Richard: They leave us out there on our own. They are based out of London, so they come here once a month. They don't want to take away from what we've done and created, they have been very pleasant to work with.

PB: What's next for LT?

John: (sighs) Lunch. Seriously though, our next goal is to get our brand out there. Open up more internationally, showcasing our product as a House, a complete accessory collection of men's and women's bags, shoes, travel, gloves, small leather goods. We don't want to be anything more than that really. We want our designs to be exposed to the world in a very special way.

Richard: Like the Pradas and Guccis of the world, when you enter their shops and you buy a wallet, a pair of gloves, a belt and it is all housed in their own environment. Even the department stores don't carry the full range of Prada or Gucci, either. Eventually, we also want to expand the product mix.

PB: Advice for fashion newcomers?

John: Take your time, don't try to rush. My biggest advice I can give is to stick to a path. Stay true to what gave you the thought to begin with, that single moment. Do not try to be anyone else but yourself.

Richard: I think you really have to create an image, whether it's a company image or an image of what you do. In the beginning, really stick true to it, because one of the mistakes with young people is the whole inspiration business. One day, they are in India. Costa Rica, then it's Japan, or Russian. Marc Jacobs can do that because he's founded his business, but as a young designer, you have to stay true to whether you are draping clothes, or whether you are working with one kind of material. It takes a while for people to notice you, unless you have a lot of recognition and money behind you. Stay true and be recognizable. That's the hardest bit.

PB: If you could meet anyone, living or deceased, who would it be?

Richard: Isadora Duncan. Dancer in the '20, crazy wild, free spirit. She's dead. Living…? I am kinda crazy about Daniel Day-Lewis. He lived in Florence and made shoes for two years. I was dying to run into him because we have an apartment there.

John: J.D. Salinger. He's so mysterious.

PB: What would you be if not a designer?

Richard: Forensic scientist. Easy one.

John: A man of leisure.

PB: Favorite indulgence?

John: Spending money. What would you say?

Richard: John loves to shop.

John: Richard's favorite is gardening and interior projects. My favorite indulgence would have to be doing nothing. I can sit and do nothing all day long. NOTHING.

PB: If you wrote a book about yourself, what would the title be?

Richard: I already have notes and a title but I am not going to tell you! I would like to write a fictional memoire.

John: My friends always say I'm "Uptight but Dynamite”.

[Megs]

I have to tell you all that Richard and John were such amazing people to meet. We had the best time meeting with them and it really was an eye-opening experience. I loved getting to know them and can't wait to see them again!

[gacats]

I've been admiring their designs for a while, it's nice to see they're so down to Earth!
Thanks for the fun interview with them!

[noon]

Im not very familiar with this brand, but the bags look very interesting! thanks for sharing Megs, I know slightly off topic but I love your top!

[gloss_gal]

Love Lambertson Truex. I have a wallet from years ago I use. That wallet has been through it and it still looks great. They are definitely considered a premier brand.

[[coco]]

Megs I am so so so so insanely jealous!! I deeesspeerraatteeelllyyy want the Lambertson Truex clutch you own. That purse is the meaning of fabulous!! I wonder if it comes it gold all the time Huuuuuuh.....

LT is not availbale in my city (probably not even in this whole country) but I just love their designs..... just waiting for them to come over here!!
I truly am so jealous you met them.... and I can only dream of owning that clutch!

[JAP4life]

How cool that you can bring us some of the most recognized Designers! They both seem like very down to earth,funny men. Thank you for making this happen Megs!