Quote:
Originally Posted by sputnik
oooh, that would be hot. the sputnik kind of has a ring to it, non?
how do you come up with a design for a bag? do you start with an idea of a size or shape you like and go from there? do you choose the leather depending on the design, or do you start with a type of leather you want to use?
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All of those... and all at once!!
Before you can design anything with confidence, you really have to know leather and how it performs before choosing it, how it reacts to certain construction methods and also what you can physically get out of a hide.
People often forget that each skin of leather is unique and a strange shape that has to be expertly cut to get the best panels to stitch. It's not on a roll like fabric! And each reacts differently, depending on:
which type of animal (eg bull or goat or croc or calf etc),
which part of the hide is used (bellies are softer, stretchier, shoulders are harder, thicker)
where its from geographically and climatically(eg scandinavia or india), how old it is (eg calf=smooth, thinner, or bull=heavier, more robust),
how well it has been reared (barbed wire fences, nutrition, pests etc),
how the hides were cured, how far they have travelled before being tanned, I could go on...!
You really rely on the tannery to supply to your standards, so you need to choose your supplier with care. Good leather is really expensive, and you can go so wrong if you try and get it to do something it doesn't want to.
You also need to choose the 'attitude' of the collection, and marry your leathers with the styles you want.
For my first collection I chose a relaxed, travel-oriented story as my starting point..I particularly like easy pieces that are more about about effortless style, and less about trying hard to be the latest "It bag".
There's so many handbag brands investing huge amounts into marketing, advertising and celebrity endorsment etc... I don't want to compete in that area, but prefer to find a niche.. those on a 'journey of discovery' for something a bit different.
So, I decided to do something less about here-today-gone-tomorrow fashion, and more about a lasting investment.
With that overall 'theme' amd focus, I then looked at the sort of styles I felt would suit the relaxed but chic 'attitude' I was after, and that would fill certain needs for a modern lifestyle. Unfussy totes, that you can use for the weekend, or for work, or for your baby gear etc.. an overnight bag that fits into the overhead locker perfectly and makes you feel good carrying it, beautiful wallets and accessories that add a little bit of luxury to the things we all do everyday etc...
I knew I wanted a softer, less formal silhoutte to the collection, but still something that suited both casual or smarter looks.
The hardware (metal fittings) needs to be designed early on as it takes the longest to develop. I designed understated but high quality pieces to add focus and individuality. I only like using hardware where it actually serves a purpose, so they are functional too.
Less is more, and all that!
Finally, you do a lot of range planning... and tweaking designs to make sure things fit and carry well, that the design is balanced, literally and visually. A simple looking style actually needs higher quality materials and a lot of tweaking to get it looking perfect.
At the end of the day, you are designing for your customer, so you really have to get to know them and what makes them happy!
A bag might have huge shelf/photo appeal, but if that customer finds it awkward or uncomfortable to use and it doesn't feel lovely, OR it doesn't make them feel sexy, or classy, or whatever they want to project to the world about themselves, then it isn't going to be a success, however much a designer might believe in it.